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  #1  
Old 08-26-2011, 01:57 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
Default Engine corrosion prevention?

I have a o-360 that was rebuilt in 7-09 and the cylinders were fogged with oil approximately 1 year ago. I am getting ready to hang the engine in a month or so and am worried about corrosion before I get it flying (hoping for 2ish years). It will be in my attached 2 car garage no heat/air in NE Kansas. Is there any benefit of:

1. filling completely with cheap automotive oil?
2. fill with preservative oil and turn upside down for a couple of days?
3. Leave as is and build on?

Thanks,
Andy
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  #2  
Old 08-26-2011, 04:33 PM
N15JB N15JB is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denver
Posts: 564
Default

Preservation oil is not intended to last for 2 years. Fill it with oil and don't turn the crank.

Jim Berry
RV10
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  #3  
Old 08-26-2011, 06:20 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
Default

I have my shop heated and cooled because that is what I do.
My humidity is always 40% or below.

I would recommend running a dehumidifier with permanant drain to outside. Seal off any air leaks around doors.
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Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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  #4  
Old 08-26-2011, 06:59 PM
highflight42x highflight42x is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Seattle
Posts: 104
Default storing an engine

Briefly: I stored my 0-320 for eight years, then hung it, and it started within a few blade turns first time out!

Details: I completed and flew my RV in 1990, 0-SMOH; then the stork started delivering babies, so I took it apart in 1996 after 350TT, and stored everything in my garage. Used Aeroshell MIL-C-6529C Type 1 preservative oil and followed Lycoming directions for pickling (dessicants, preservative oil run, etc). Made a habit of airbrushing the inside of cylinders and exhaust ports with same preservative oil about once a year. Didn't move the crank (taped it with a big 'DO NOT ROTATE' sign). Then, put it all back together in 2004 - pulled one jug just to have a look: the cam and everything else was fine. 250 flight hrs later, still running fine. The garage was dry enough so that bare steel (old airplane parts) did not rust. Burns one quart every 25 hrs (the old "cermi-chrome", if anyone remembers that), all cylinders 78/80. Tied down on the ramp since 2004 (scary), but just got it into a hanger (sigh)

- Steven
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  #5  
Old 08-26-2011, 07:40 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,188
Default

Thanks for the replies, I have read the lycoming bulletin and am mostly concerned about the cam/valve train. I have the dessicant plugs and can re-fog if necessary. I did have to coat tailwheel spring (bare steel) parts in T-9 Boeshield to prevent surface rust so I will get a dehumidifier. How much oil does it take to fill up the case above the cam?
Thanks,
Andy
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