Tip-up Canopy construction question

Pmerems · #1 05-07-2006, 04:43 PM

Fellow Tip-up builders.

I am in the process of building my tip-up canopy and hope that those who have come before me can answer a question.

There are AD4 rivets that hold the canopy frame weldment wd-716 to the side rail weldments wd-725 (L&R) and the canopy splice plate c-613. I understand from previous posts that one of the canopy forward skin c-702 AD3 rivet almost intersects one of the AD4 rivets, but aren't other rivets that pass through this joint.

here is a link to the sections of the drawing with this post for quick reference http://www.experimentalaero.com/canopy.jpg . Maybe I am missing something on the drawings. Is there really only one canopy forward skin rivet that passes through this joint?

Thanks in advance.

Paul

Davepar · #2 05-08-2006, 11:14 AM

I only had problems with one rivet.
http://www.dualrudder.com/rv7/2005/09/17/744

tx_jayhawk · #3 01-07-2007, 03:42 PM

Dave/Paul/Others,

I wish I would have read this thread / link sooner, as it looks like I did the exact same thing (702 skin rivet hole right next to existing splice plate rivet). I'm not sure what Vans intended with this location, as it is clearly a problem (picture shamelessly copied from Dave's link).

What was the solution here? Did you just rivet it, or did you drill it out for a #8 or #10 screw?

THanks,
Scott

Scott Will · #4 01-07-2007, 04:23 PM

If I recalll, I just made a new angle and then match drilled that to the canopy skin. Unfortunately that meant removing all the other rivets. Wish Vans was clearer or made this known before it all went together.

tx_jayhawk · #5 01-07-2007, 05:15 PM

Thanks Scott. Sounds like the "right" way to do it.

Is that what others have done as well? It seems everyone who followed the tip-up plans should have this same problem.

I'm debating just sticking a rivet in there and squeezing it. It seems the frame is already very secure, and that skin rivet isn't really structural.

I have a number of shims around the canopy frame, and I am afraid things will move slightly if I drill out and replace that splice plate.

Scott
7A Finishing

robertahegy · #6 01-07-2007, 06:39 PM

I have one from the skin that partially went into a splice rivet. If your fitup is good, leave it alone. There are ten rivets in that splice. If the offending skin rivet is well set and does not loosen the splice rivet, move on.

JMHO

Roberta

Scott Will · #7 01-07-2007, 07:04 PM

I also agree with Roberta and was going to mention that. Remember, when the canopy goes on that adds strength to the whole contraption as well. I just did what I did for cosmetic reasons knowing I'd always be looking at it!

RudiGreyling · #8 01-08-2007, 12:10 AM

I saw this coming when I did a mock up of the assembly, and thought how lucky I was to see it in time. I just ommited the hole for the big -4 rivet in that specific location, and back drilled the -3 instead using the skin as template.

There is '6' big rivets still in there in the forward section, 4 on top and 2 below, and then one smaller -3 rivet, taking the space of the offending -4.

Regards
Rudi

Gsuit · #9 01-08-2007, 09:43 AM

I Juuust finished this, and didn't catch the overlapping holes. Since I had already riveted the frame, I just left the AN4 rivet out of the skin and will fill it with Super Fil or micro balloons when I do the canopy fillet.

I thought about squeezing a "rivet to nowhere" in there, but the shop head would cause the skin to stand off a bit.

tx_jayhawk · #10 01-08-2007, 06:09 PM

For what's it worth, Vans said to just go ahead and rivet it. It will at least help somewhat in attaching the skin to the frame, and the frame already has a number of rivets so that the strength is not compromised.

I don't like it, but I guess I can live with just two imperfect rivets on the plane. ; )