Dual Pmag issues from owners?

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by apkp777

Sig,

I have 180 hours on my dual Pmag set up. I did have one of the screws that bind the wires come loose. I don't love how they have the wiring attach. at some point I would like to improve the connections. I don't know what solution I would use, but if anyone has any ideas I am all ears.

Funny timing. I was talking to Brad today about the connector debate and he said the early series ignitions had a computer style connector and they got a lot of complaints about interferences with other engine components. Thus they went to the current connector because of its low profile.

Originally Posted by allbee

I love mine. take your wires and solder the ends and than put into the connections worked for me.

This is not a good idea. The hardened wire will vibrate and break. What you want to do is put two layers of shrink tubing around the bundle of wires and secure that with the supplied adel clamp. This will keep the wires from moving. 300 hours and the only broken wire I have had is the one I soldered. Clipped the solder off and haven't had a problem since.

Originally Posted by Bavafa

Can some of the existing users that moved from mag to Pmag provide some tangible data? Affect on fuel consumption, perceived power gain and perhaps temps.
I have heard that we should expect higher CHTs, if so by how much did your CHT raise compare to regular meg?

Thanks in advance for all info.

Check the E-mag web site. Typically you can expect ~1.5 GPH improvement at the same power settings with a dual P-mag setup. Or you can step up the power, go faster, and burn the same amount as you would with mags.

As for the CHT's, you can program the P-mags to act exactly like a standard mag or modify the "B" curve to be anything you like. I suggest people start with the jumper in, forcing them to the "A" curve. Once the engine is broken in and they know what their CHT's are going to do, then you can remove the jumpers and run on the "B" curve.

I strongly recommend you bring the serial connection wires into the cockpit and terminate them in with two separate DB-9 connectors. That way you can plug your laptop into them and "tune" the P-mags, if needed. It also makes it easier to intall an EICommander later on, if you want one.

[RV8R999]

You guys with dual P-mags running auto plugs. Do you have an auto plug sized compression tester or do you remove the plug adaptors and use the standard aircraft compression tester fitting? How hard is it to remove those adaptors?

Im running 1 P-mag, 1 Slick and use the slick plugs to test compression and have not had to remove the P-mag auto plug adaptors yet. Just curious.

Thx

[Jim Ellis]

I had P-mag wire breakage problem some while back and found a solution. Go to my post and see how I solved it.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=43451

Hope this helps.

[jbDC9]

I'm at 810 hrs in roughly 4.5 years of flying... I like 'em. Dual Pmags on an O-360 with NGK plugs.

The first 250-ish hours were a pain in the butt; I felt a bit like a beta tester with numerous failures and returns to the factory. Brad and company took care of it and they seem to have found their happy place... the last 500+ hours have been trouble free.

[mike newall]

Our aeroplane is the second in the UK with dual P-Mags - our LAA (EAA) have a hatred of anything new or different, however they were persuaded !

Having watched all the initial problems of E and P mags and having met and discussed things with Brad at Sun n Fun on several occasions, it is really good to see the product maturing and being lauded by more and more pilots.

Our installation and operation has been perfect - once I took the impulse spacer off - Doh !

Starts cold or hot without a problem, runs very smooth, idles well etc.

I just enjoy flying a wonderful aeroplane and am not interested in whether it does a tenth of a knot more, or sips a pint of gas less - I am looking at clouds whiz by, seeing them upside down as I roll over them, go out to get an expensive cup of tea and bacon sandwich etc etc.

To sum up

They are simple

They are cost effective

They are well supported

They run your engine smooth and sweet

What more could you ask for ?

[videobobk]

I can give some comparison data. I started with two Slicks. I changed out one and saved 1 gph in cruise, got better starting and smoother idle, but the idle only improved when I shut off the remaining Slick! No real performance increase, however. Added the second P-Mag, now have smooth idle down to 450 rpm, saved maybe another .2 gph, and gained 4 mph in cruise. I had to send the first one back for upgrades, but no problems with either since then. They work as advertised and the support is great.

Bob

[N520TX]

Originally Posted by RV8R999

You guys with dual P-mags running auto plugs. Do you have an auto plug sized compression tester or do you remove the plug adaptors and use the standard aircraft compression tester fitting? How hard is it to remove those adaptors?

Everything comes out. I use a larger deep-well socket that grips just the adapter for removal. Once out, I can easily separate the two.

[RV8R999]

ok so your remove the auto plug and adaptor as a unit... Thanks!

[tmbg]

Originally Posted by allbee

I disagree. anyway on my whole airplane I soldered everything. I crimped a few things and the only wiring problem I've ever had was the crimped, done with the right equipment. I guess you need to know how to solder.

oh and I tinted the wire and let the solder go up inside the insulation. I also do soldering on wiring in cars. Never an issue, but the crimped, issues with corrosion like you wouldn't believe.

This is exactly backwards with what every expert on the subject preaches. Crimped connections done correctly with quality terminals and proper crimpers are absolutely the most durable way to terminate wires for aircraft. Soldered connections are subject to breakage from vibrations and not recommended.

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by N520TX

Everything comes out. I use a larger deep-well socket that grips just the adapter for removal. Once out, I can easily separate the two.

Originally Posted by RV8R999

ok so your remove the auto plug and adaptor as a unit... Thanks!

Yes, use a socket on the adapter and remove both the auto plug and the adapter together. If you need to separate the adapter from the auto plug, use two sockets and all is good.

As posted on a prior thread, when installing the adapters, put anti-seize on the threads of both the auto plug and the adapter, hand thread the auto plug on the adapter and start the adapter in the cylinder. Then torque the auto plug per the instructions. Do NOT try to torque the adapter with or without the auto plug installed. Torqueing the adapter without the plug installed will crush it.