Elevator Leading Edges

[Wilkie]

Hi All,

I'm building a -7 and I'm having a really hard time rolling the leading edges of the elevators.

I've been using a 1" wooden stick that was formerly known as my garden rake and I can't seem to get the edges rolled correctly. The leading edge is basically divided into 3 sections and the middle section is where I'm having the most trouble.

I managed to get clecos into the middle section but there are so many bumps and gaps that it looks like ****. I even used the edge roller to help turn down the edges but that hasn't helped too much.

Does anybody have any secrets they could share with me on how to do a decent job? The rudder leading edge was a no-brainer compared to this. IMO

Thanks..........
Wilkie

[Mel]

It's not an easy thing to do. When we built, the leading edges were not cut into sections, so it was easier. We rolled the leading edges and then cut out for the hinges. It's also easier if you can roll it before attaching the counterbalance skins. The saving grace is that when it's all done, the leading edges do not show, so it's not too critical.
Mel...DAR

[Scott Will]

The elevators are harder because they are thicker skins. I think the diameter of your roller tool (aka garden rake) is OK, that's about what I used.

One suggestion is to drill holes between the pre-punched holes to help the skin come down better. I did this on one of my elevators because I was having the same kinds of problems. Just double up on the blind rivets.

As Mel said, you can't really see the leading edges once the elevator is on!

[jferraro17]

Personally, I found this task waaay tougher then the dreaded trim tab. I used extra rivets too. The center section on both elevators and my rudder had severe "pucker" issues. I just put one between each existing rivet, pretty much took care of it. Like Mel said, you'll be the only one who knows once they're mounted

Joe

[Captain_John]

You need a lever! I used PVC, but what made it appreciably easier was putting a lever on the pipe.

I drilled a hole through the pip and put a piece of threaded rod through it so it would afford an easier way of curling the edge.

ALSO, be cautious not to overwork the edge with the edge roller! It will stretch the edge and actually worsen your situation!

Sometimes you need to say ENOUGH!

Hope this helps!

CJ

[Wilkie]

Thanks for all the responses to my question. It seems I may not be the only one to have trouble rolling the leading edges.

As I attempted to roll these things by myself, I threw every 'cus word I could think of at the situation and it didn't seem to help very much.

My wife was afraid to come out to the garage when she heard the language coming through the walls.

Thanks Again..........
Wilkie

[CFI1513840]

Wilkie,

Instead of scaring your wife away, get her to help you. The job will go a lot faster and easier.

It's all in the prep. Here's my advice: use 1 " diameter steel pipe. Drill 3/8" holes all the way through the end of pipe, 90 degrees offset from one-another. See thumb-nails below. Use the best quality duct tape you can find (all duct tape is not created equal). Use a 3/8" by about 18" rod inserted through pipe as handle to apply torque. While rolling, the rod can be moved to the next hole as necessary to avoid interference with elevator. The length of the pipe should be just enough to allow the rod handle to fit between the end of the elevator and the horn. Do each section separately. Ideally, you would have three lengths of pipe, one for each section, or you can trim the pipe as you go, but you would have to do both elevators before trimming for the next section. Duct tape the leading edge section to the pipe with equal overlap. With the elevator on the bench, one person applies downward pressure with both hands while the other person applies the torque. The actual rolling is the easy part, it's the prep that sucks, but well worth while. YMMV.