|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

08-13-2011, 09:21 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Berwick, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 83
|
|
Edge Forming Tool Question
Good Day Folks,
Does the edge forming tool sold at Cleveland Tools do the exact same thing as the edge rolling tool offered by Avery Tools and Aircraft Spruce? Are they in fact one and the same, just different method of utilizing them (vice grip vs. no vice grip)?
Thanks
Chris
|

08-13-2011, 09:46 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
|
|
That is correct. I have both and have found the Avery tool is a bit easier to use for me.
|

08-13-2011, 10:50 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: La Feria Texas
Posts: 3,822
|
|
I have the vise grip type, it took me quite a bit of practice to get the hang of the darned thing, I thought the "twin roller" type would be easier to use.
|

08-14-2011, 05:38 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,368
|
|
I have both types and much prefer the vise grip version. Once it is set up to the right squeezing force it is quick and easy to use. Just go slow and don't let it veer off. A little squeeze is all you need to get a mild shadow of a crease.
|

08-14-2011, 05:52 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Northwestern USA
Posts: 1,209
|
|
I have both types, and in my own personal opintion they each have their unique purpose... the vise grip type is for making a perfect formed edge, and the other kind is for making scrap aluminum.
mcb
__________________
Matt Burch
RV-7 (last 90%)
http://www.rv7blog.com
VAF #836
Any opinions expressed in this message are my own and not those of my employer.
|

08-14-2011, 08:52 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Boerne, TX
Posts: 228
|
|
Chris, "Breaking the edge" is one of the real booby-traps in RV building. It needs to be done but is very easily over-done. (Don't ask how I know.)
On my second build I just hacksawed 3 different depths into a piece of hardwood and starting with the deepest, progressively worked to the shallowest putting a very slight "break" on the edge so it wouldn't pooch out when riveted. You can use a straight-edge and a flashlight to judge this. What you want to avoid is the "line" from a single pass through one of the commercial tools. Many of the RV's you see will have the lines visible.
Jim
RV6A
RV12
|

08-15-2011, 10:05 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Boone, Iowa
Posts: 342
|
|
The tools work in different ways. Our tool (vise grip w/stainless rollers) has the angles build into the rollers to allow about a 14deg. bend. That is overkill for most applications. The edge distance is maintained by the flange on the rollers and measures 0.200" from the bend. The other tools (with rollers) keep the edge distance consistant by the location of rollers, but the angle is held manually by rotating the tool on two different axis. Keeping that angle consistent without stretching the metal is more difficult. However with these tools you can go around radius' where with our vise grip tool you can only do straight lines.
-
|

08-15-2011, 03:58 PM
|
 |
Moderator, Asst. Line Boy
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flower Mound, TX
Posts: 1,472
|
|
But go slow!
One of the two stainless steel rollers on the vice grip style has a raised lip that keeps the rollers flush against the skin's edge. You don't need to tighten the vice grip tension much to use the tool...but if you make it too loose, you'll jump that raised lip right up onto the skin and dig a pretty good elongated dent into the metal:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...g=132367&row=2
I got some help from some experienced aviation sheet metal pros to stretch out and roll/pound the dent flat, then squeeze the area back to original shape and thickness (he owed me, and he made good). Everything matches up now, but if it didn't I would have simply bought a new skin.
Good luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by N223JH
Chris, "Breaking the edge" is one of the real booby-traps in RV building. It needs to be done but is very easily over-done. (Don't ask how I know.)
On my second build I just hacksawed 3 different depths into a piece of hardwood and starting with the deepest, progressively worked to the shallowest putting a very slight "break" on the edge so it wouldn't pooch out when riveted. You can use a straight-edge and a flashlight to judge this. What you want to avoid is the "line" from a single pass through one of the commercial tools. Many of the RV's you see will have the lines visible.
Jim
RV6A
RV12
|
__________________
Scroll
Sid "Scroll" Mayeux, Col, USAF (ret)
52F NW Regional/Aero Valley Airport, Roanoke TX (home of DR's Van Cave)
"KELLI GIRL" N260KM RV-7A tipper
Catch her on YouTube's "Because I Fly!" channel
Exemption waived.
Proud and grateful 2020 -=VAF=- Contributor
|

08-15-2011, 04:10 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 469
|
|
What Matt said.
Once you get the feel of it, the vise-grip tool is almost like cheating, it works so well. You do practise using a new tool on scrap before going after the real parts, don't you?  And yes, I own both types.
__________________
William Slaughter
Houston, TX
RV-8QB
|

02-04-2012, 10:18 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 25
|
|
WD-40 Helps
There is friction between the edge of the wheel and the edge of the piece being formed. I apply some wd-40 with a rag along the edge of the piece and this makes pulling the vice-grip tool much easier. I make sure the piece is clamped down and pull the tool with both hands, one on the grip and the other on the end of the bolt holding the wheel. Darned near done before I figured this out.
Glen Wilcox
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:39 AM.
|