How does inboard brake pad come out?

[brian]

I need to replace the brake pads on one side of my RV. The first side was fine, but the other side definitely needs it.

But I can't figure out how to remove that inner pad (or remember how the brakes went together on the RV I was building).

I've got the wheel, rotor, and outboard brake pad off. I've removed the 2 nuts for the stud that the inboard pads rides on. But the stud doesn't seem to move at all, even after the nuts are removed. What job are the nuts doing?

Here's a pic:



Caliper is C, B is end of rod that the inboard pad floats on, A is where the nuts were. A-B appears to be one continuous threaded rod, but it doesn't move a bit when the nut is removed.

Is rod A-B threaded into the caliper and has to be threaded out(toward the left in this pic)? With pliers on end B? That doesn't sound very good for something I want to be smooth so the pad can float freely.

Do I have to remove the AN nut on the brake line and move the whole caliper inboard until rod A-B clears the backing plate? I hope not, as that'll introduce air into the brake line.

What's the magic trick here to get that inboard pad off the 2 pins A-B?

[rv6rick]

No mirrors, no magic tricks.....you simply slide it off. I recommend a little lube on the slider bolts during assembly.

http://www.groveaircraft.com/iac.pdf

Edit - oh yea.....'if' you don't have enough slack in the brake line you will have to undo the fitting. You can pull the vent plug on the main reservoir and intall a pipe plug....this will prevent the fluid from running out.

Have fun.

[gasman]

Originally Posted by brian

I need to replace the brake pads on one side of my RV. The first side was fine, but the other side definitely needs it.

But I can't figure out how to remove that inner pad (or remember how the brakes went together on the RV I was building).

I've got the wheel, rotor, and outboard brake pad off. I've removed the 2 nuts for the stud that the inboard pads rides on. But the stud doesn't seem to move at all, even after the nuts are removed. What job are the nuts doing?

Here's a pic:



Caliper is C, B is end of rod that the inboard pad floats on, A is where the nuts were. A-B appears to be one continuous threaded rod, but it doesn't move a bit when the nut is removed.

Is rod A-B threaded into the caliper and has to be threaded out(toward the left in this pic)? With pliers on end B? That doesn't sound very good for something I want to be smooth so the pad can float freely.

Do I have to remove the AN nut on the brake line and move the whole caliper inboard until rod A-B clears the backing plate? I hope not, as that'll introduce air into the brake line.

What's the magic trick here to get that inboard pad off the 2 pins A-B?

You are doing it the wrong way!!!!!! Put the nuts back on the studs.

Now look at the brake pad that is closest to the tire. That pad and plate is held on to the cyl with two 1/4" bolts. Use a 7/16" wrench and remove the two bolts. Remove the plate with the brake pad riveted to it.

Now, just slide the brake cyl out of the two dowel holes. Go easy and don't strain the brake tubing. Once the dowels are clear, then squeeze the plate with the other brake pad so the piston will retract back into the bore.

Now remove the plate and pad off of the dowels. When you replace them, be sure that the pads face the disc.....

Keep the dowels clean. They must slide as the pad wears. Bolube works good here. It is dry and won't collect dust.

On page 6
http://www.groveaircraft.com/iac.pdf PARTS LIST.. remove 14 with 12 by removing 2 #7 bolts only. Then the cyl will slide out of the holes. The dowels stay with the cyl.

[Walt]

This is SERIOUS business, loss of braking can/will cause an accident.

IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO SOMETHING FIND SOMEONE THAT CAN HELP YOU !!!

HAVE A QUALIFIED INDIVIDUAL INSPECT YOUR WORK WHEN YOU'RE DONE, ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE NOT SURE WHAT YOU'RE DOING

The internet is a great thing, but its apparant you would benefit from some "hands on" assistance doing your first brake job!

[mrreddick]

Ditto what Walt said! Changing pads is an easy, dirty job but you need to be able to do it right! Get someone to show you how to properly remove both pads and how to rivet new ones on. I have a braided line so my caliper assy comes off easier without disturbing the hydraulic system. Never heard that hint before about putting a solid plug in your reservoir to prevent fluid from coming out. If you're going to disconnect that fitting you'll probably end up bleeding your brake system. So, if you don't have all the equipment to remove & install new pads and possibly bleed the brakes, don't attempt it until you do. If you do, you'll be a possible accident looking for a place to happen!

[schristo@mac.com]

here is a shot for reference...

[brian]

Got it OK now. Thanks for the tips, guys. Now I just have to ait for the order from Aircraft Spruce to come in! ;-)
brian

[prkaye]

I think I need to remove my brake pads on one side and clean and bevel the forward edge of the pads to eliminate a very loud screech I hear as the brakes close at low speeds/stopping.
I haven't looked in detail yet at this, and it's been a while since I assembled these... do I need to take the wheel off the plane to remove the brake pads?

[schristo@mac.com]

The wheel can stay on to remove the brake pads. The outter comes off without any particular effort, the inner requires you to pull the pad assembly with the pins away from the pin guides to remove the pad... this will bend the break line as you pull it and reseat it... any pre-load to the caliper from the break line will promote break squeal.

[prkaye]

Stephen, do those instructions apply to the Cleveland brakes (the ones that came with the kit)? I just noticed that some of the discussion above seems to be about Grove brakes.