Cork or proseal?

[Kato's 8]

Hello all,
Can I get your opinion on why some builders choose to seal their tank access panels with proseal only instead of using the vans supplied cork gasket? Also, has anyone used both? I'm a bit nervous with using the proseal alone because I don't know how tight to tighten down the screws. I guess It would be possible to squeeze out most all the seal and then have near zero gasket. What say Ye?
Thanks, and good weekend everyone!
Bill

[sstellarv10]

When I installed the float and sending unit I used just proseal and through out the cork, no issues. When I tighten the screws it left a nice bead of proseal inside an out.

[robertahegy]

I used both by coating the cork gasket on both sides and coating both mating surfaces with proseal. I had no leaks in 4.5 years. Sold the plane in 2008, but I assume the seals held for the new owner.

This has been debated ad nauseam.

Roberta

[L.Adamson]

Pro-seal only. My tanks are done that way.................and have no leaks at all. Search back through the archives, and you'll find it's the best method.

L.Adamson --------RV6A

[Ironflight]

It has been done all three ways by many people, and probably successfully in most cases. However, I have heard of more leak problems (in my time in the RV world) with nothing but cork, and also with cork+pro seal. I went with nothing but pro seal on the RV-8 because that is how tanks were sealed in the Grumman world that I came from, and have had no leaks in 1350 hours.

[flion]

And now for an opposing view. I used cork with Fuel Lube (ACS is now selling a Fuel Lube equivalent, the quart is a lifetime supply). After testing my tanks I found I had to pull it apart to do the service bulletin, so prosealing could potentially have left me building new tanks - proseal is dang difficult to get apart. I put new cork gaskets and fresh Fuel Lube on, retested, and 4 years later have no leak issues plus my inspection ports are easily removable if need be. As in so many other instances, Van knew what he was doing.

[David-aviator]

Originally Posted by flion

And now for an opposing view. I used cork with Fuel Lube (ACS is now selling a Fuel Lube equivalent, the quart is a lifetime supply). After testing my tanks I found I had to pull it apart to do the service bulletin, so prosealing could potentially have left me building new tanks - proseal is dang difficult to get apart. I put new cork gaskets and fresh Fuel Lube on, retested, and 4 years later have no leak issues plus my inspection ports are easily removable if need be. As in so many other instances, Van knew what he was doing.

Recently I removed both access plates which had been pro-sealed in with no cork back in 2002. They were stuck together all right but a very thin flexible putty knife with a sharpened edge cut the sealant without damaging the rib or plate. I had to use a hammer to get the knife through the sealant but once it was most of the way cut, it popped right off.

I cleaned up the plates and installed them likewise in the new tanks with the SB finally complied with, which IMHO is a CYA SB. There's no way that pick up tube will come loose if it is properly tightened. The safety wire is in to satisfy the lawyers if need be in the future.

Another subject which may interest some, the right fuel indication has been intermittent since day one and I figured out what the deal was. The fuel gage pick up device was not adequately grounded. Those plates had the rubber gaskets. This time there are no gaskets, just metal to metal pro-sealed in and the ground seems to be very adequate. At least both sensors tested in ohms very well.

[Greg Arehart]

I did what Patrick did but used gasket seal so it would be easier to remove if necessary. I also used the allen-head screws. Works well so far (2.5 years, 350 hours).

Greg

[NYTOM]

Proseal makes a leak proof bond. If you have to remove the plate for any reason a putty knife and a little warm-up from a heat gun will soften it enough to remove the plate without destroying anything.

[L.Adamson]

Originally Posted by NYTOM

Proseal makes a leak proof bond. If you have to remove the plate for any reason a putty knife and a little warm-up from a heat gun will soften it enough to remove the plate without destroying anything.

Yep................my prosealed only covers had to be removed for the SB. At first it seamed like a bear, but then went easy. No damage at all.

L.Adamson --- RV6A