Am I doing this right (starting to seal the fuel tanks)?

Bullseye · #1 06-10-2011, 10:46 AM

Hello, everyone.

After thinking and plotting for many (sleepless) days and nights about how much neater and cleaner my sealing was going to be than anyone else's, I got off my high horse and realized that everyone else's sealing looks way better than mine. I know it doesn't matter what the sealant looks like as long as it seals, but I try to take pride in the craftsmanship.

Anyway, how do these pictures look? Am I doing it right? (sorry for the large picture size)

(Oh, and one more question, how do I get the proseal off of the threads of the quick drain flange? Any ideas?)

After getting a 30cc syringe:

Bullseye · #2 06-10-2011, 10:47 AM

Oh man, wrong forum area!

Could one of the moderators move this over to the general discussion area?

Thanks much, and sorry for the inconvenience.

Done, no biggie. M S

bkthomps · #3 06-10-2011, 10:58 AM

looks good to me andrew but also looks a little generous, you could use a bit less and have no issue

I highly recommend a pneumatic sealant gun, if you'd like to borrow mine for your tanks, PM me

AltonD · #4 06-10-2011, 11:17 AM

Go ahead and bite the bullet. pull off the blue stuff. surround you work area with electrical tape and then pull it off when you are ready to allow the sealant to dry. Use MEK for clean up.

Bullseye · #5 06-10-2011, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AltonD

Go ahead and bite the bullet. pull off the blue stuff. surround you work area with electrical tape and then pull it off when you are ready to allow the sealant to dry. Use MEK for clean up.

I'm using the blue stuff as electrical tape. Will be pulled off after a day or so.

I can't figure out how to use MEK to clean up the drain flange threads. Maybe a soaked paper towel around an undersized bolt spinning through the hole?

Hmm.

newimaging · #6 06-10-2011, 01:25 PM

I always see people putting lots of pro-seal on the "top" of the rivet heads, but isn`t it the area of the holes there the rivet exits that need the sealant instead of the top of them. I guess the thought is that when you dip some on the head it runs down the side and seals the seam, but I made sure by putting pro-seal around each rivet. Just a thought. Right tank tested leak free first try. Have hopes for Left tank

.

bkthomps · #7 06-10-2011, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N999ZA

I'm using the blue stuff as electrical tape. Will be pulled off after a day or so.

I can't figure out how to use MEK to clean up the drain flange threads. Maybe a soaked paper towel around an undersized bolt spinning through the hole?

Hmm.

the blue doesn't work nearly as well as electrical tape does

ASKMEHOWIKNOW

Vlad · #8 06-10-2011, 01:44 PM

Andrew do not worry about the look.

The more proseal the merrier. Tanks may pass pressure tests with flying colors but after several years in storage they may weep. Just a thought, I remember somebody (Mel or LAdamson) told me that years ago I didn't listen. Now resealing the screws. Do not save on sealing compound here

terrye · #9 06-10-2011, 01:52 PM

The tank drains use a 1/8" NPT pipe thread (from memory), so do NOT run a bolt up through it to clean out the threads (the threads taper). Try your local automotive store for an actual tap (not very expensive) or get a piece of 1/8" pipe with a male pipe thread on it, file a longitudinal groove in the threads and gently run this into the tank drain to clean the proseal.

Bullseye · #10 06-10-2011, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkthomps

the blue doesn't work nearly as well as electrical tape does

ASKMEHOWIKNOW

I'll pull some of the blue off tonight and see how well it worked (and report back here).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlad

Now resealing the screws. Do not save on sealing compound here

Bummer, Vlad.

Quote:

Originally Posted by terrye

The tank drains use a 1/8" NPT pipe thread (from memory), so do NOT run a bolt up through it to clean out the threads (the threads taper). Try your local automotive store for an actual tap (not very expensive) or get a piece of 1/8" pipe with a male pipe thread on it, file a longitudinal groove in the threads and gently run this into the tank drain to clean the proseal.

Thanks, terry. I was thinking of using some greatly undersized bolt, or drill bit, or anything I could wrap a proseal-soaked towel around to softly clean out the threads, but I kind of like your idea better anyway. I'll do some googling and see if I can find a tap.