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04-24-2006, 01:51 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI area
Posts: 2,967
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When to do Duckworks?
simple enough question...
when is the best time to install the Duckworks landing lights?
i've cleco'd the ribs in the leading edges, and wondered if i should do the landing light installations before the LE's go on the wing permanently... 
__________________
Chad Jensen
Astronics AES, Vertical Power
RV-7, 5 yr build, flew it 68 hours, sold it, miss it.
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04-24-2006, 01:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Paul, MN.
Posts: 4,792
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I can't give you a definitive answer; only how I did it and I waited until the wing was done and still in the jig and THEN did the landing light. It was a pretty simple operation and probably took 2-3 hours. The only part that was pretty lame was the method of holding the plexi to the nose for drilling -- it involves some convoluted sticky stuff (that doesn't hold) in a sling. I wonder if it would've been easier before mounting to do it?
But, as near as I could tell, it can be done just about anytime.
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04-24-2006, 02:28 PM
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Chief Obfuscation Officer
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 1,110
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Chad,
I certainly have no experience in this department, but FWIW I am planning on doing mine before I rivet the LEs to the spar. I figure that if I manage to screw something up, I might hate myself a little less. 
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04-24-2006, 02:31 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
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Chad--
Did mine before riveting the leading edge together. That way, if I really messed up the cut-out, "all" I'd have been be out is the cost of the LE skin.  Otherwise, I could have been out a lot worse than that. On the other hand, my cutouts turned out just fine, so it's a reasonable gamble to just go ahead and rivet everything together first. Good luck.
My method if you're interested:
1. Cutoff wheel in dremel tool as close to the line as I dared.
2. Removed up to line with a drum sander in the dremel.
3. Used ~ 300 grit sandpaper.
4. Used ~ 600 grit sandpaper.
5. Used scotchbrite pad.
Turned out great and the shapes are actually pretty square! Even without riveting first, it was an anxiety-producing exercise, but again all turned out well.
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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04-24-2006, 02:38 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,110
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I just ordered mine. I intend to do them with the skin clecoed on before I rivet. I figure this gives my the most flexibility and I don't see any reason why I shouldn't do it like this.
-john
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John Coloccia
www.ballofshame.com
Former builder, but still lurking 'cause you're a pretty cool bunch...
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04-24-2006, 02:42 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Any time really
I riveted the leading edge together, then cut the hole with a Body Saw.
It would have been a little easier to install before the ribs were riveted in place but it really wouldn't make much difference.
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Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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04-24-2006, 03:57 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 625
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Before paint!
Seriously, as long as you have removeable wing tips, you can do them at any time with very little difference in work. Just leave a wire pull in your wing wiring conduit. You are using a conduit, right?
Jekyll
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04-24-2006, 04:38 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,061
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Read through the instructions and you'll see that it's easier with things clecoed rather than riveted. Unless the kit has changed since I did mine, you'll need to install some nutplates in the two outer ribs. This could be challenging in a finished wing. It's definitley do-able, but easier if you can disassemble things. I also agree with the previous poster that if you screw things up, you'll have less work to do. Finally, measure several times before you cut. I rememember reading about one builder who had things upside down. Unless you taxi inverted, this would really suck.
__________________
Steve Zicree
Fullerton, Ca. w/beautiful 2.5 year old son 
RV-4 99% built  and sold 
Rag and tube project well under way
paid =VAF= dues through June 2013
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04-24-2006, 05:12 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,014
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Like a number of people I did this while the LE was being assembled, easier to install the nutplates in the ribs and you can check the fit etc while the assembly is clecoe'd. Also found it easier as the whole LE can be on the bench when doing the cutout etc. I used a combination of drilled #30 holes and snips and then file and dremel (wish I had had the power saw mentioned above) to do the cut-out, I did try one of the store bought hand shears and it was **** so dont waste your money on one of these.
I also switched the screws that mount the light plate to the ribs for bolts as it is easier to get a swivel socket in the hole than a screwdriver.
As mentioned you can however do the whole thing later when the wing is finished.
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04-24-2006, 08:36 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 626
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As soon as you get up the nerve
Here's a motivational couple of pictures for ya!
http://www.aclog.com/rv-9a/index.php?c=2#466
It's a great weekend project, those landing lights!
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