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  #21  
Old 05-19-2011, 05:20 PM
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scard scard is online now
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
This should help Ron....written by Henry S. Rose, Chief Engineer, Sensenich, back in the good 'ole days:

Wow, super cool! I consider that, outside the box engineering simplicity that many of us have almost lost .
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  #22  
Old 05-19-2011, 05:26 PM
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Ron Lee Ron Lee is offline
 
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Thanks Dan. Looks like 0.10 inch should be adequate. I did measure everything when I converted from an Aymar Demuth prop to a Catto several years ago but it helps to have info like this.
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  #23  
Old 05-20-2011, 11:53 AM
MNForrest MNForrest is offline
 
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Location: Brooklyn Park, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandifer View Post
According to the IAC contest results this Forrest fella is pretty good in his S-1S too. Did you fly Sebring a couple weeks ago? I attempted to CD the Carolina Boogie last weekend, but had to cancel due to Wx. Major bummer.
Yes, Sandifer - I flew Sebring. My first attempt at Intermediate, after all winter off. It was rough. Had to bail before the unknown to make it home for Mother's day, but I was just happy to get some time in the box in front of critical eyes.

Forrest
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  #24  
Old 05-20-2011, 07:01 PM
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WillyEyeBall WillyEyeBall is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Daleville, AL
Posts: 343
Default prop info and thanks

Would like to thank all the responses and valuable information on this incident. I'll let everyone know what we find when the engine is opened up, and the replacement components, including a new prop that we will install.

Bill McLean
RV-4 Slider
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  #25  
Old 05-21-2011, 11:44 AM
steve91t steve91t is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 138
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I have a question, is giving the prop a tug or two as a pre flight going to allow you to detect a prop that's starting to come loose? I'm assuming that if it's at the point where you can feel play, it's too late.

Steve
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  #26  
Old 05-21-2011, 12:02 PM
TThurston TThurston is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Orem, UT
Posts: 213
Default 50 hour inspections

The rental plane I fly, a Diamond DA-20 C1, has mandatory 50 hour inspections to retorque the bolts on it's Sensenich wood prop. My ground instructor had his prop fall off during a flight, and was able to glide to an airport and land safely. As I recall his story, there was really very little warning before losing the prop. The engine suddenly seemed very rough - shaking so much that he shut it down. The next instant, the prop was gone and everything went quiet. He said it was really quite peaceful.

So during preflight I aways try to look beneath the edges of the spinner and yank on the prop to see if anything is amiss. So far no problems.
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  #27  
Old 05-21-2011, 04:52 PM
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Location: Dallas area
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Default Nobody has yet mentioned humidity!

I didn't notice anyone talking about humidity. This is one of the major reasons for re-torquing a wood prop frequently. If the prop is installed when the humidity is low, the prop will swell as humidity increases resulting in the bolts being over-torqued. On the other hand if the prop is installed during high humidity, the prop will shrink as the air dries out and the bolts will actually become loose.
Wood props should be re-torqued more often in areas where there are significant changes in humidity.
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  #28  
Old 05-21-2011, 05:08 PM
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Ron Lee Ron Lee is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
On the other hand if the prop is installed during high humidity, the prop will shrink as the air dries out and the bolts will actually become loose. Wood props should be re-torqued more often in areas where there are significant changes in humidity.
There may have been a prop departure in the west not too many years ago on a canard that was based on the east coast. Perhaps it was a humidity change issue.
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  #29  
Old 05-21-2011, 06:17 PM
PCHunt PCHunt is offline
 
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Default BTW.....

..........When you re-torque a wood or other prop, you should first back every bolt off a bit, then re-torque them all in proper sequence. Then check tracking.

Don't just add torque to an already torqued bolt.
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  #30  
Old 05-21-2011, 07:32 PM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Default Also....

Quote:
Originally Posted by PCHunt View Post
..........When you re-torque a wood or other prop, you should first back every bolt off a bit, then re-torque them all in proper sequence. Then check tracking.
Don't just add torque to an already torqued bolt.
Don't re-torque immediately. Give the prop a little time to "relax" before re-torquing.
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Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
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