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05-19-2011, 05:20 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH
This should help Ron....written by Henry S. Rose, Chief Engineer, Sensenich, back in the good 'ole days:

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Wow, super cool! I consider that, outside the box engineering simplicity that many of us have almost lost  .
__________________
Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
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05-19-2011, 05:26 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,275
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Thanks Dan. Looks like 0.10 inch should be adequate. I did measure everything when I converted from an Aymar Demuth prop to a Catto several years ago but it helps to have info like this.
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05-20-2011, 11:53 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Brooklyn Park, MN
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandifer
According to the IAC contest results this Forrest fella is pretty good in his S-1S too.  Did you fly Sebring a couple weeks ago? I attempted to CD the Carolina Boogie last weekend, but had to cancel due to Wx. Major bummer.
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Yes, Sandifer - I flew Sebring. My first attempt at Intermediate, after all winter off. It was rough. Had to bail before the unknown to make it home for Mother's day, but I was just happy to get some time in the box in front of critical eyes.
Forrest
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05-20-2011, 07:01 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Daleville, AL
Posts: 343
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prop info and thanks
Would like to thank all the responses and valuable information on this incident. I'll let everyone know what we find when the engine is opened up, and the replacement components, including a new prop that we will install.
Bill McLean
RV-4 Slider
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05-21-2011, 11:44 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 138
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I have a question, is giving the prop a tug or two as a pre flight going to allow you to detect a prop that's starting to come loose? I'm assuming that if it's at the point where you can feel play, it's too late.
Steve
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05-21-2011, 12:02 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Orem, UT
Posts: 213
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50 hour inspections
The rental plane I fly, a Diamond DA-20 C1, has mandatory 50 hour inspections to retorque the bolts on it's Sensenich wood prop. My ground instructor had his prop fall off during a flight, and was able to glide to an airport and land safely. As I recall his story, there was really very little warning before losing the prop. The engine suddenly seemed very rough - shaking so much that he shut it down. The next instant, the prop was gone and everything went quiet. He said it was really quite peaceful.
So during preflight I aways try to look beneath the edges of the spinner and yank on the prop to see if anything is amiss. So far no problems.
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05-21-2011, 04:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,761
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Nobody has yet mentioned humidity!
I didn't notice anyone talking about humidity. This is one of the major reasons for re-torquing a wood prop frequently. If the prop is installed when the humidity is low, the prop will swell as humidity increases resulting in the bolts being over-torqued. On the other hand if the prop is installed during high humidity, the prop will shrink as the air dries out and the bolts will actually become loose.
Wood props should be re-torqued more often in areas where there are significant changes in humidity.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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05-21-2011, 05:08 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel
On the other hand if the prop is installed during high humidity, the prop will shrink as the air dries out and the bolts will actually become loose. Wood props should be re-torqued more often in areas where there are significant changes in humidity.
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There may have been a prop departure in the west not too many years ago on a canard that was based on the east coast. Perhaps it was a humidity change issue.
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05-21-2011, 06:17 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,670
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BTW.....
..........When you re-torque a wood or other prop, you should first back every bolt off a bit, then re-torque them all in proper sequence. Then check tracking.
Don't just add torque to an already torqued bolt. 
__________________
Pete Hunt, [San Diego] VAF #1069
RV-6, RV-6A, T-6G
ATP, CFII, A&P
2020 Donation+, Gladly Sent
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05-21-2011, 07:32 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,761
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Also....
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCHunt
..........When you re-torque a wood or other prop, you should first back every bolt off a bit, then re-torque them all in proper sequence. Then check tracking.
Don't just add torque to an already torqued bolt. 
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Don't re-torque immediately. Give the prop a little time to "relax" before re-torquing.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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