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  #11  
Old 05-16-2011, 07:51 PM
Greg Arehart's Avatar
Greg Arehart Greg Arehart is offline
 
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Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
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My elevator lock is similar to the one Mike shows, but is a single piece and adjustable. Here's a photo of it in development:





The unit slides on the front side of the elevator. Thumbscrews allow me to tighten it down and the black bar on the left (at 45 degrees) slips down between the elevator and HS, keeping the unit from sliding off. The black stuff is plastidip to keep from scratching the paint. Once tightened down, the elevator is really locked in place so only one unit is needed.

Since I've given up on photos that have disappeared, if anyone ends up interested in this, email or PM me and I will send you a PDF with drawing and photos (updated 1/20).

greg
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RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A

Last edited by Greg Arehart : 01-30-2020 at 05:43 PM. Reason: Photos gone...
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  #12  
Old 05-16-2011, 09:31 PM
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cjensen cjensen is offline
 
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Nice timing on this thread Pierre...was planning to figure out control locks this weekend. I really like your approach and I think I have all the needed material on hand...
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Astronics AES, Vertical Power
RV-7, 5 yr build, flew it 68 hours, sold it, miss it.
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  #13  
Old 05-17-2011, 01:29 AM
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tkatc tkatc is offline
 
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Doesn't a seat belt buckled around the stick afford just as much protection?
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  #14  
Old 05-17-2011, 05:05 AM
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pierre smith pierre smith is offline
 
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Location: Louisville, Ga
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Default No.

I don't like the belt around the stick because you'll have full "up" elevator that the wind can get under and a sideways wind can still move the stick left-right.

The best control lock comes from the Air Tractor factory:



BTW, this is NOT my Air Tractor.

A pin fits into a hole on the bracket that's welded to the stick. You simply lift it up and it swings back under the dash by a spring.

Yes, I only have one control lock on the ailerons and elevator of the -10.

Best,
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Pierre Smith
RV-10, 510 TT
RV6A (Sojourner) 180 HP, Catto 3 Bl (502Hrs), gone...and already missed
Air Tractor AT 502B PT 6-15 Sold
Air Tractor 402 PT-6-20 Sold
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It's never skill or craftsmanship that completes airplanes, it's the will to do so,
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  #15  
Old 05-17-2011, 06:35 AM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: USA
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Default control lock for rudder?

Great suggestions for DIY control locks for the elevator and ailerons !

Do you guys recomend the same for about the rudder?
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  #16  
Old 05-17-2011, 06:52 AM
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Greg Arehart Greg Arehart is offline
 
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Glen,

For the rudder, I simply drilled a hole in the horn (near the rudder tailwheel link) and a hole in the stop on either side, and insert two pieces of thick wire (one on each side) bent into an upside-down U shape (this was when my airplane was a -9A). I saw this method here on VAF years ago and don't remember who was the original poster. Sorry, I don't have a photo of this handy.

greg
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RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A

Last edited by Greg Arehart : 05-17-2011 at 08:03 AM. Reason: I read sam's post and needed to clarify.
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  #17  
Old 05-17-2011, 07:06 AM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierre smith View Post
I don't like the belt around the stick because you'll have full "up" elevator that the wind can get under and a sideways wind can still move the stick left-right.

The best control lock comes from the Air Tractor factory:



BTW, this is NOT my Air Tractor.

A pin fits into a hole on the bracket that's welded to the stick. You simply lift it up and it swings back under the dash by a spring.

Yes, I only have one control lock on the ailerons and elevator of the -10.

Best,
This is the type of lock I use on my RV-6. I have a photo but can't find it--the lock is made from 1/8" stainless welding rod that fits into two holes in the lower flange of the panel. The lock is attached to the stick with a length of safety wire ( I used a short bungee for a few years). Of course no lock is needed for the rudder on the tail draggers.
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RV-6
Fokker D.VII replica
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  #18  
Old 05-17-2011, 08:02 AM
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Greg Arehart Greg Arehart is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan View Post
This is the type of lock I use on my RV-6. I have a photo but can't find it--the lock is made from 1/8" stainless welding rod that fits into two holes in the lower flange of the panel. The lock is attached to the stick with a length of safety wire ( I used a short bungee for a few years). Of course no lock is needed for the rudder on the tail draggers.
....as long as the tailwheel steering pin is engaged!
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RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
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  #19  
Old 05-17-2011, 08:20 AM
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flyboy1963 flyboy1963 is offline
 
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Location: Lake Country, B.C. Canada
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Default new and improved....

My plane 'came with' the Pierre-style hose pinch type locks. After I noticed they were leaving some black marks, I added a larger diameter clear water hose over the black fuel hose. They originally used bungee shock cord, but as that stretched, they would walk off the taper, so it seemed a big zip-tie worked as well, and was slim enough to slide between the elevator and H.stab as well!
BTW, my seat belts won't go around the stick in my -9a?....unless the buckle is right on the metal, (which I figured would chip the paint) plus I didn't like the full up elevator either, as that was the directon of the prevailing wind at the time.
As for pre-flight, I did flag them, but also thought that I should have a checklist item that says, ' ensure you have all 7 locks & plugs in the flight bag prior to flight'.....so I didn't really number each, just know that If I haven't pulled 7 things, I"ve missed one, or it's laying on the ground or in the snow!
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RV-9a - SOLD!....
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  #20  
Old 05-17-2011, 08:28 AM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Arehart View Post
....as long as the tailwheel steering pin is engaged!
That is part of our post-flight inspection, isn't it?
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RV-6
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