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  #11  
Old 04-29-2011, 10:30 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielhv View Post
Does anything truly DRY in HOUSTON?
Never!

I just scuff anything internal with Scotchbrite and hit it with Duplicolor self-etch. Exterior stuff? The painter takes care of that....
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2011, 01:24 PM
benbell4140 benbell4140 is online now
 
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+1 for duplicolor.... Tough as nails!!
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2011, 06:55 AM
CDBridgesRV7A CDBridgesRV7A is offline
 
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Mr Dye,

Do you clean the scuffed parts after you have scuffed them or do you go right from scuffing to using Duplicolor primer? I just bought 2 cans of Duplicolor (all they had left) but haven't used any yet. It;s on sale right now 2 for 1 Think I'll buy a case of it!

Cheers

Chris
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2011, 08:04 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDBridgesRV7A View Post
Mr Dye,

Do you clean the scuffed parts after you have scuffed them or do you go right from scuffing to using Duplicolor primer? I just bought 2 cans of Duplicolor (all they had left) but haven't used any yet. It;s on sale right now 2 for 1 Think I'll buy a case of it!

Cheers

Chris
If I felt that it had grease, oil, wax, adhesive, or something else that migt be chemical in nature, I'll clean it with whatever seems appropriate. For clean material, I just wipe off th edust from scuffing and shoot.

Paul
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2011, 12:10 PM
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randyintejas randyintejas is offline
 
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Turns out Dupli-Color is made by SHERWIN-WILLIAMS CO


https://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/684954.pdf

I also clean scuff everything, wash with Dawn and Spray Can Self Etch
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  #16  
Old 05-02-2011, 03:13 PM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
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The photo of Jim Wright on his hands and knees made me think of this.

A very handy way to scuff larger areas, say if you're painting your own skins, etc. is to put the scotchbrite pad in an orbital sander and just go at it.

You can even put a coarse piece of sandpaper in the sander, or just leave in whatever is in it, place the scotchbrite between the orbital sander and the aluminum and go at it. The sandpaper typically holds the scotchbrite just fine.

No, the scotchbrite isn't going to hurt the alclad... but water, sweat, and corrosion will!!! Much better to have GOOD paint adhesion than not.... aluminum is hard enough to bond to so scotchbrite is a definite help.

Then clean and paint with your choice of paint system.
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  #17  
Old 05-02-2011, 06:46 PM
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I do not scuff before priming with a self-etching primer. I went back and forth with this but ultimately the self-etching primer I use (Napa 7220) is not a real solid barrier against moisture unless it is sealed with paint. So I figured (my figuring is not academically related...just putting together the info I have and arriving at a conclusion) that the alclad would be an additional barrier in preventing corrosion and decided to leave it as it is. The self-etching primer, if sprayed and allowed to set (for a week) should etch the surface for a "good enough" bond. Since the primer is not a moisture barrier the alclad is still underneath to provide an added measure of protection.
I have scuffed scrap pieces of aluminum and taken non-scuffed alclad aluminum and sprayed them. To me, the bond durability seems to be about the same.
Not trying to start a war...these are my experiences and my thoughts and the process I used.
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  #18  
Old 05-03-2011, 06:16 PM
seattleworm seattleworm is offline
 
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I second Aaron. I have tried spraying DuplicColor self etching primer on scuffed and non-scuffed alclad sheet, if allowing it to cue for a couple of days, the bonding on them seems the same. A finger nail won't be able scratch to through the primer on both of them, just leave a mark. And an unburred sheet aluminum will scratch through both of them. So, I just clean and spray without scuffing the parts covered with blue plastic. For ribs, I will scuff them all before cleaning and spraying because they came uncovered and there normally are some scratches to be smoothed anyway.

Shawn
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  #19  
Old 05-03-2011, 08:47 PM
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Av8torTom Av8torTom is offline
 
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Default I appreciate

everyone's input. My reason for asking was related to the alclad layer. I know it's VERY thin, and I know it's possible to scuff off or through. I also have to believe that paint adhesion to a scuffed surface will be better. So far I have just cleaned and primed with NAPA 7220.

I would be great to hear from someone who has some real expertise in all this

To scuff or not to scuff... that is the question.
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  #20  
Old 05-03-2011, 09:49 PM
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I just wash with simple green aviation cleaner that's made for aluminum, then rinse, followed by air dry. I then hit it with Sherwin Williams 988 without scuffing the part up. It seems to make no difference whether or not the part was scuffed up prior to priming. The final product produces the same results. So, I don't scuff to save a little time. YMMV

Cheers
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