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  #1  
Old 04-26-2011, 05:18 PM
Sam Staton Sam Staton is offline
 
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Location: Green Cove Springs, FL
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Default K1000-4 Nutplate template

I am really hoping that I haven't shot myself in the foot. I am attempting to install the battery contractor and starter relay on the firewall. They use K1000-4 nut plates. I can't find a nut plate template for them. I bought the -6, -8, and -10 templates from Avery, but they don't list one for the -4. I have, of course, already drilled the holes 1/4". Any suggestions for a source or a fix will be gratefully accepted! Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 04-26-2011, 05:21 PM
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UnPossible UnPossible is offline
 
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Just use a nutplate as a template. I have started a screw from the backside of the nutplate, and just screwed it in so that the end sticks out a 1/4" or so from the nutplate..... it has worked well for me.

Good luck,
Jason
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  #3  
Old 04-26-2011, 06:06 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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The K-1000-4 mounting holes are exactly 1.00 inches apart. Since the mounting holes are quite oversize you might be able to just carefully use a sharpie and a punch to get the two rivet hole locations....

Specs are here...

http://www.skybolt.com/catalog/anchor.pdf
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  #4  
Old 04-26-2011, 06:15 PM
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vlittle vlittle is offline
 
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As I recall, a 1/4" diameter piece of aluminum tubing will slip over the nipple on an #8 nutplate jig, thus transforming it into a 1/4" nut place jig.


V
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  #5  
Old 04-26-2011, 07:32 PM
Sam Staton Sam Staton is offline
 
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Default K1000-4

Excellent information! Thanks a million to all who replied. Now, I need to locate a #40 screw dimple die ... Any recommendations for a supplier?
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:39 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlittle View Post
As I recall, a 1/4" diameter piece of aluminum tubing will slip over the nipple on an #8 nutplate jig, thus transforming it into a 1/4" nut place jig.


V
Vern - not for K-1000 nutplates - the #8 have a 0.688 inch spacing...

Check my specs. link...
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  #7  
Old 04-27-2011, 12:23 AM
Flying Scotsman Flying Scotsman is offline
 
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I have a collection of screws and bolts that I cut off so that they're just long enough to hold a nutplate tightly while I drill the rivet holes. Screw 'er in, drill one hole, cleco that one and then drill the other, then uncleco and unscrew.

#6, #8, 3/16, etc.

I also have a few nutplates that I ran a tap through a few times so that I can use any screw to easily screw it all the way down tightly.

Either way...I have nutplate jigs, but don't like them because I find it harder to get the rivet holes properly aligned. E.g., draw a line from an edge and "over" the screw hole, using any method or tool. You'll never get it *exactly* centered on the hole. With a jig, I always ended up with the rivet holes just a tad "cockeyed" because I can only see one hole/line combo at a time. With an actual nutplate, I can see both, and as long as it looks the same on both sides, I know the nutplate is straight relative to my line.

Crooked nutplates bother my sense of order in the universe.
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Last edited by Flying Scotsman : 04-27-2011 at 12:27 AM.
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  #8  
Old 04-27-2011, 07:50 AM
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vlittle vlittle is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Vern - not for K-1000 nutplates - the #8 have a 0.688 inch spacing...

Check my specs. link...
Good catch. I used this technique for some floating nutplates which have a different pitch.
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