Hi Dave-
Yes, I did use the template, but (at least for me) that was only a minimal starting point. I had to take off much more than what the template original had me take off. It's sort of a iterative process. Cut it out, fit the mount, trim a little more, fit the mount again, etc. Part of the problem is that until everything is at least clecoed and bolted together (both bulkheads, mount, and skin), you don't really have a good feel for exactly where the mount is going to fit relative to the slot, so it's a time-intensive process. Then, when you rivet the tailcone together, everything will get closer still. Consequently, my advice is to leave a bigger gap than what you think you will need. I would cut it so that you have at least 1/8" from any contact before you start riveting.
FWIW, I was also stumped over how to rivet underneath the mount on the F711 bulkhead--since there's no way to get the bucking bar in there. Van's emailed that pulled rivets were OK for the tailcone but that since it was a taildragger, recommended that I use CherryMax rivets. Thus, I drilled up to #30 about 3-4 of the holes that I thought would be difficult to rivet and dimpled them before putting it together for the last time. I'm glad I did. Be prepared for some difficult bucking as you put the tailcone together. They were the hardest rivets I've had to date since the leading edge rivets on the HS. There's a lot of force working against you where those 2-3 skins come together and the angles at which you have to shoot and buck the rivets can be challenging. I ended up with no damage to the skin, but had to replace a couple rivets and have a couple more where the shop heads are not the prettiest.
Not sure if this is representative of the experience of other tailgear builders, but hope it helps. Good luck.
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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