Is the Quickbuild Primed??

[idleup]

I have a QB fuse and assumed that since the inside of the fuse had a dull and very slight greenish tint (in some places) that it has been primed. However, now I am wondering if it is just scuffed and has been prepped but still needs priming. I want to get confirmation before starting to close stuff up whether what comes by default on the quickbuild is in fact primer or something else. Some areas in the fuse dont even have a greenish tint at all but looked "scuffed"...

- Matt

[Pirkka]

According to the Van's web pages (under the quickbuilds) they say that the QBs are primed.

[rv8ch]

Originally Posted by idleup

...Some areas in the fuse dont even have a greenish tint at all but looked "scuffed"...

If you take a bit of acetone or mek or probably water (just kidding) and wipe it, see if you can get some to come off on a rag. That will tell you it is primed.

My QB came with what Van's called a "Sherwin Williams Wash Primer". I got the details and contacted Sherwin Williams, and they said that this primer is not a sealer, just a layer to help a top layer grip better. They said that it was totally unsuited for the application Van's uses it for - that is priming something that won't get a top coat. Not cool, but what can you do? In places where I could put a top coat on, I did. There are of course a lot of places where you can't.

If you think that priming is good, and I personally do, then you'll probably not be too happy with the QB primer. Now, you mentioned that yours has a green tint. Mine did not, it was grey, so perhaps your QB has a different primer. I hope so. Your best bet is to check with Van's to see what you have.

[Mel]

I've been using Sherwin Williams "wash primer" for about 20 years. At one time Sherwin Williams called me and questioned this use. I asked them what they would recommend. After studying for about 2 months, they called back and said it should work fine. It has worked great for me. It's light and effective. If you choose to use something else, then great. I will continue to use it until someone convinces me that something else is better.
Mel...DAR

[rv8ch]

Originally Posted by Mel

I've been using Sherwin Williams "wash primer" for about 20 years. At one time Sherwin Williams called me and questioned this use. I asked them what they would recommend. After studying for about 2 months, they called back and said it should work fine. ...

That's good to hear. I guess I'll know in 20 years or so how it works out! Thanks for the info.

[mgomez]

It's primed with a product that S-W claims "provides no significant corrosion protection," or words to that effect.

[LifeofReiley]

From information I gathered a couple of years ago the SW Wash Primer helps the QB's cross over in the container without showing up at Van's with corrosion. It's not a long term solution against corrosion for aluminum.

[gmcjetpilot]

Originally Posted by LifeofReiley

From information I gathered a couple of years ago the SW Wash Primer helps the QB's cross over in the container without showing up at Van's with corrosion. It's not a long term solution against corrosion for aluminum.

With all due respect that is not correct.


Scott McDaniels, RVator article, 5th issue 2005, tested 2024-T3 alclad
aluminum with: Bare (clad), SW wash primer and scotchbrite/prime finish.

The test sample was place out in the open, subject ambient Oregon Pacific
coastal regional weather (60 miles from ocean).


"After 3.5 years outside the (wash) primer surface is still shiny new
underneath. The portion that had no primer has light corrosion."

<further>

"At Van's, we still believe that construction an RV without adding any
additional protection to the alclad skin surfaces is a viable, lower cost/lower
labor option. We also believe that the product that we apply to the QB kits is
a good compromise when your consider cost versus benefit. It affords the
customer the added airplane value of additional corrosion protection on the
entire airframe without a lot of additional cost."


There are +35 year old Wichita airplanes on the ramp going strong with out
ANY primer. A RV with NO primer will out live all of us, unless you like to wash
it in salt water.

Except for extrusions, our RV kit structure is clad alum and does not NEED
priming? I put a (?) because what ever makes you happy. If you have a Lake
amphibian or C180 on floats in salt water, sure prime way. RV in a hanger or in
the desert south west no so much.

As far as using thicker (heavier) sealing primer, think of the added weight. An
exterior paint job can weight up to 30 lbs for primer, paint, trim, sealer.
Completely "sealing" the interior structure with "sealing primer" could easily
weight 10 lbs (guess, could be more). Also consider the $cost$ and labor:
(scotchbrite, etch, rinse, alodine, rinse, dry, mix, prime, flip, mix, prime).

Wash primer is not a sealer, correct, but it does help. My story is you don't
needed it on clad structure anyway. I don't think I'll care if my fuselage or
wings have some minor surface corrosion in 100 years.


Cheers George

[LifeofReiley]

Calm down George... I DID NOT say SW wash primer didn't work did I?
And YES... Van's Wash Primer idea on QB's was so that they would NOT have any corrosion issues from transportation in containers. I did say that it was NOT a LONG TERM solution for corrosion on aluminum! I didn't even say what type of aluminum...?

Myself, I'm not priming anything EXCEPT bar stock and angle etc... raw aluminum items.

Slap Slap...! Don't talk about primer Darrell. God forbid another Primer WAR!

[osxuser]

Same here, the angles and ribs get Zinc Chromate. Everything else is clad, so thats that. . .