My Squeezer Went Nuts - I need ideas.

[cstanley]

I was dimpling my airframe when my squeezer stopped working in the CLOSED position with quite a bit of pressure still on. I disconnected the air supply, and attempted to back the post down w/ a wrench but it's too tight. I am dead in the water right now. I sent Bob Avery an e-mail, but he's on his way to S&F. Does anyone have any ideas?

[Peter Costick]

You might be able to tap one of the yoke pins out, worth a try I guess but if its pressurised they might be super tight. The other thing that might help is time, I guess the system must have some leakage.

Good Luck

[larrynew]

Remove the two bolts or pins holding the yoke and slide it up?

Here's the exploded diagram:

[Walt]

Check the little plunger that is pushed in when you activate the trigger, I had one do exactly the same thing the other day and jocking with the trigger it finally popped out (or maybe grab it with a needle nose and help it out.

[cstanley]

Guys: Thanks for the help. The exploded diagram was great! I had already tried all the other options and so bit the bullet and decided to take it apart. If nothing else, I decided I could mail Avery a bunch of parts. As I took off the base plate, screw by screw, the whole internal works finally shifted and released the pressurized air. Lucky for the squeezer, the wall behind it, and my face between the two, the guts of the unit dislodged and blew back a bit when I still had two screws loosened but not removed. That kept the squeezer from becoming a small cannon. Dumb, but lucky dumb.

Again, thanks a lot for the advice.

[robertahegy]

Make sure when you use it for dimpling to set it so the dies are just touching at the end of the stroke and make sure you are not using too much air pressure. When you rivet, adjust the set so that you get the correct "squash" at the end of the stroke. About 90 psi is all you need to set rivets and dimples.

Roberta