Tip: Getting Your Panel Labels Straight

Ironflight · #1 03-20-2011, 08:51 PM

While I think that the cat?s Meow in panel labeling is silk-screening, or maybe engraved panels with electroluminescent backlighting, I have resigned myself to the fact that when I am designing a panel, I inevitably make changes during construction, and these changes often mean that the labels I intended for switches and/or indicators have to change. For this reason, I prefer labels made with the Brother labeler using black or white colored letters on clear film. My experience is that if you burnish them well, the clear disappears and they stick forever.

The only trick folks seem to have with these is getting them on nice and straight. The trick I use is to pull out the back-rivet tape ? low-stickiness magic tape ? and use it to give myself a guide line. Here is our RV-3 circuit breaker panel in the process of being labeled:

And here is how it looks when it?s finished:

Of course, since I ?finished? it, I have slightly changed the functions of two circuit breakers ? but you?d never know it, because all I had to do was change the individual labels?.

Paul

bird · #2 03-20-2011, 09:03 PM

Very nice looking, thanks for the tip, sounds doable for me.

bird

Danny King · #3 03-21-2011, 06:57 AM

Paul,

Why are there two CB's for each P-mag?

Ironflight · #4 03-21-2011, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danny King

Paul,

Why are there two CB's for each P-mag?

Good question Danny.

All of the "critical" loads on our RV-3 are supplied from two sources (both busses). The G3X boxes are built with two internally-dioded power feeds, but the P-Mags have only a single power input, so I just built a couple of diode-packs to power them simultaneously from each bus. Yes, the P-Mags have their own internal power source, but I really, really want the ignition to work....

I really like this power scheme because in the case of bus failures, there is nothing the pilot needs to do to preserve critical capability - it is bone-simple redundancy and "automation". It just works.

Paul

mculver · #5 03-21-2011, 07:52 AM

Another trick that I used in a different plane was to print entire rows on laser-printer-safe clear material. Then I cut to height on a paper cutter and used the good 3M non-yellowing scotch over the entire row to hold the label down while also protecting the lettering from abrasion.

SmilingJack · #6 03-21-2011, 12:53 PM

Paul,

First let me say I really like the panel and appreciate the updates you give.

Now....second I have to bust your chops a little, even though you have been doing the whole RV scene a lot longer then me!

"Seat Heat" ??? I thought Texas was HOT!

couple more questions...

CIGAR? I saw that little label on the side: is that a CIGAR low level light sticker?

C & W? whats that breaker for?

again, great posts and very nice looking -3.

Ironflight · #7 03-21-2011, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmilingJack

Paul,

First let me say I really like the panel and appreciate the updates you give.

Now....second I have to bust your chops a little, even though you have been doing the whole RV scene a lot longer then me!

"Seat Heat" ??? I thought Texas was HOT!

"We build locally, but we FLY Globally (well, Nationally....)" It gets cold in the mountains!
couple more questions...

CIGAR? I saw that little label on the side: is that a CIGAR low level light sticker?

Discarded label - "Cigarette Lighter" was too long, shortened it to "Cigar", then decided "+12V" was the best description for the outlet - we don't allow smoking in airplanes, after all....

C & W? whats that breaker for?

"Caution and Warning" - I tend more towards Classical...or at least Classic Rock myself....

again, great posts and very nice looking -3.

Thanks!

- extra characters to satisfy the software -

Junglepilot · #8 03-23-2011, 08:53 AM

What's your method for burnishing?

Ironflight · #9 03-23-2011, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junglepilot

What's your method for burnishing?

X-Acto Burnishing tool - I've had it for decades. It has a hard round tip on one end that is spring loaded so that you don't push too hard. The other end is a medium-stiff plastic "blade" (not for cutting) that is used to apply pressure over a half-inch wide swath - think very tiny Bondo spreader.

Don't know if they can be purchased anymore - dry-transfer is a very obscure art these days.

Paul

Danny King · #10 03-23-2011, 06:45 PM

Paul,
I've put a total of two flight on the new P-mags in the Doll, and I like them! A new set of eight NGK BR-8ES plugs set me back a whole twenty bucks! One of the Doll's former fine wire plugs was sixty five dollars! My days of cleaning spark plugs are over!

Starting is almost explosive. I'm not sure the engine got all the way around before ignition. Hot starts are different then before, as a rich mixture will not mean a flooded engine.

I think you're going to like P-mags.