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  #1  
Old 01-11-2011, 10:24 AM
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Cadstat Cadstat is offline
 
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Default Gas Tank Drain valve Replacement

I have an almost totally stuck gas tank drain valve on the RV I bought that also has a slight drip. I bought replacement valves from Van's. Do I need to use pro seal on the threads when I replace it or is there something better?
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  #2  
Old 01-11-2011, 10:30 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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No proseal.

Use fuel lube.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ead.php?t=8791
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2011, 11:40 AM
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AltonD AltonD is offline
 
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now known as EZ Turn fuel lubricant.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ezturnlube.php

The 5 oz tube should last the life of your airframe.
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  #4  
Old 01-11-2011, 12:05 PM
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Default Or

teflon paste from the hardware store.

if you intend to have any ethanol in your gas you'll need to replace the Orings with flourosilicone ones from McMaster Carr..Easy mod for a few cents.

Frank
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  #5  
Old 01-11-2011, 12:27 PM
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bhester bhester is offline
 
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Thumbs up Aircraft Spruce

Aircraft Spruce has them also. They also have just the seal so you repair the old one to keep as a spare in your tool bag.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ges/safair.php


These are easy to swap out even with fuel in the tank. Put the fuel lube on the threads of the new and put a bucket under the drain take the old one out and put the new one in. You won't get much fuel in the bucket.
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2011, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhester View Post
These are easy to swap out even with fuel in the tank. Put the fuel lube on the threads of the new and put a bucket under the drain take the old one out and put the new one in. You won't get much fuel in the bucket.
Leave the fuel cap on, and plug the vent line first, and you will slow down the leak quite a bit.

BE SURE to remove the vent plug before flying
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Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2011, 01:19 PM
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Cadstat Cadstat is offline
 
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Default Thanks to All

THANKS TO ALL WHO REPLIED!! Great advice all around.
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2011, 01:41 PM
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Capflyer Capflyer is offline
 
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I find that at least once every six months one of the drains start to drip. I now don't put anything on the threads and have had no leakage problems around the threads plus it makes it easy to remove, clean and reinstall. Most of the time I find a tiny spec of dirt around the o-ring seal which is easily cleaned. I keep a cleaned extra now so when I remove one, wearing a glove of course, plug the hole with a finger as I bring the spare into place. At most I'll loose about 4oz of fuel doing it this way...most of which ends up running down my arm (good thing I wore that glove )
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2011, 05:10 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Quote:
Leave the fuel cap on, and plug the vent line first, and you will slow down the leak quite a bit.
I always tie shop rags around my wrist too. Keeps the "tingle" from reaching your armpits.
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2011, 06:08 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed View Post
I always tie shop rags around my wrist too. Keeps the "tingle" from reaching your armpits.
I put my thumb over the hole when I remove the leaky one, have the new one handy, and insert it right after removing my thumb. I spill less fuel than I waste checking a sump.
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