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  #1  
Old 01-09-2011, 08:28 PM
John Courte John Courte is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 634
Default Please critique my panel.

This is my first crack at the panel layout for 313TD.



This link opens it full-size.

I'm missing the aux power and audio input, but this is the current layout. Apologies for the half-***** throttle quadrant drawing, that's just in there to give me a rough guide for obstruction of switches by the real thing.

To do the layout, I used a CAD program called DraftSight, which is free, and uses dwg files as its native format, so I was easily able to copy and paste switches from the Aeroelectric Connection into the panel drawings available from Van's.
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Last edited by Rosie : 01-09-2011 at 08:32 PM. Reason: Fixed links
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2011, 08:31 PM
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Rosie Rosie is offline
 
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I'd put the transponder underneath the Garmin, above the switches Rosie
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Last edited by Rosie : 01-09-2011 at 09:32 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2011, 08:39 PM
Graham S Graham S is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
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Hi John,

Looks like a nice clean layout. Are you planning on flying IFR? or just VFR Day/Night? Either way I would suggest a backup instrument to your EFIS such as an analog ASI and altimeter and possibly A.I. if you plan on taking it IFR. That's the biggest thing for me, even though I love all the electronics available to experimentals, it never hurts to be ready for when the screens go blank.

Graham
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2011, 08:47 PM
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hydroguy2 hydroguy2 is offline
 
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make sure you check the clearances for your tip up canopy
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2011, 08:52 PM
John Courte John Courte is offline
 
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Eventually I'll take it IFR, but not before I put in a backup EFIS like a Dynon D10 or more likely, MGL Xtreme. With the EFISes each having their own backup battery, that would give me redundant flight instruments and 3 levels of power redundancy. I'd also get a second comm radio like the MGL V10.
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2011, 08:56 PM
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java java is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 408
Default Stupid question...

Unless I'm missing something, you have one com and one nav source (the 430)... so why the need for the very nice, but also a bit pricey audio panel?

This from a VFR only pilot who has only ever used audio panel to switch between two com's...

Edit: just saw your comment about adding future equip, which makes more sense.
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Last edited by java : 01-09-2011 at 08:58 PM. Reason: New info...
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2011, 05:34 AM
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pierre smith pierre smith is offline
 
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Location: Louisville, Ga
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Default What Rosie said...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosie View Post
I'd put the transponder underneath the Garmin, above the switches Rosie
...is a more usual installation....looks good.

Best,
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2011, 06:13 AM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
 
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Location: Asheville, NC
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Default Panel drawing size

As stated above, make sure to account for the 3/4 by 3/4 aluminum angle on the upper perimeter of the panel.

Second and more important. The drawing file I obtained from Van's some years ago was the turret punch drawing PRIOR TO BENDING. I think this is still what is supplied on the website. Make sure to account for the ACTUAL height of the panel and the bend radii at the bottom flange.
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  #9  
Old 01-10-2011, 06:53 AM
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tadsargent tadsargent is offline
 
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Java, How would you ID the VOR without the audio panel. I guess you could wire it in but the audio panel makes it a snap, also adding a switchable panel after the fact is quite a bit of work when you want the second radio. I did this last year and I was quite a feat for me.
Regards
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  #10  
Old 01-10-2011, 06:58 AM
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dhall_polo dhall_polo is offline
 
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Location: Cumming, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydroguy2 View Post
make sure you check the clearances for your tip up canopy
Yeah, This layout would not allow you install the canopy eject handle. If you want that, you'll need to lower the middle radio stack. a few inches. I think if you can line up the top of the center stack with the mgl, it'll look a little better anyway and allow the canopy eject. I think 1 row of switches looks better even if it extends right of the middle stack. You can drop the headset inputs down closer to the bottom flange.
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