Superior switched Ignition/Starter system

[N79PT]

I use the system you guys are describing (from Bob's Aerloectric Connection) with one mag on the left and a Lightspeed on the right on my -6A. WORKS GREAT!!

Simple, reliable, safe and foolproof.
Greg

[garnt.piper]

For my RV-4 I kept it as simple and light as I could. I used two SPST toggle switches, one for each mag, and another SPST momentary toggle, with a guarded cover ('missile' switch - I hate that term), to energise the starter. This I copied from the CAC-25 Winjeel I used to fly (P&W 985). It is simple, no tangle of wires, and the momentary guarded starter switch is safe apart from when you want to use it. I dislike intensely key switches.

RV-4 VH-PIO
250hrs

[Mike S]

Bruce, I just went back through the ENTIRE thread---------and figured out that you are the one who STARTED it. Duh.

In my orininal read---------I usually scan through threads to see if anything is usefull to me----------I missed you starting it, and thought the response mentioning the "on-on-mom" was a RESPONSE to the original post.

Haste has its place, but I guess here is not one of them, sorta like doing a pre-flight.

Sorry 'bout that.

Mike

[BruceMe]

I hate to see a good tread fade. I looked over the installation instructions for the pmag:

http://www.emagair.com/Installation.htm

They built it as a drop-in replacement for traditional mags. It has a groundable p-lead. So the origonal diagram I provided works great, if you're willing to run a p-lead. Although because you start on both epmags, remove the jumper between Pins 1 & 3 on the right switch.

If you dont want to run that second wire per epmag for p-lead, the two-switch + starter push-button would work just as well too.

-Bruce

[Davepar]

I don't see any way you can use 2 switches to control 2 P/Emags. You need a switch for each p-lead and a switch for each power line. The power line could be switched with a pullable breaker, but I've read those breakers aren't rated for lots of use.

Control is needed independently over the p-lead and power line to:
1. Control the new Run Mode Starting Delay feature.
2. Set/check the timing.
3. Test the generator on the Pmag.

And who knows what future feature. Anybody that is planning the wiring for a P/Emag should read the full installation instructions. The Aeroelectric wiring diagram will limit the functionality.

Dave

[BruceMe]

You nead a fused +12v line that's runs (unswitched) directly off the master bus to both epmag units. Because the pmag is self-generating, you dont have to worry about single point of failure on that wire. Then you run the p-leads like it was a regular mag. same same.

-Bruce

[BruceMe]

I know this is an ancient thread, but now that I'm flying, I really love this simple ignition/starter switch... I found that my old schematic is gone, so I re-did it.

Schematic

Installation picture (above Exp-Bus) notice the placarding

I believe I used NKK S339T-RO from DigiKey $10.26, I found something similar on google... $5.15 each!

So... $150 for a key'd ignition that you will need to replace every 10 years... or $12-$25 for an intuitive switch pair that will last as long as the plane?

-Bruce

[BruceMe]

Just a quick follow-up. I love this ignition/starter switch so much, I'm retro-fitting it to my RV-6 project.

It's really intuitive and so simple.

[David-aviator]

Originally Posted by BruceMe

Just a quick follow-up. I love this ignition/starter switch so much, I'm retro-fitting it to my RV-6 project.

It's really intuitive and so simple.

Can you start with mag only with this system?

I have stopped using EI on start because of a kick back if engine does not keep running after start. This happens sometimes if prime is not just right. This is very tough on starter ring if starter is not disengaged immediately.

[BruceMe]

The wiring in the diagram shows how it grounds the right mag (off) while in the start position. If you set up you EI on the left, just swap left/right.