De-burring Help

[RV7AJeremy]

I need a little feedback on my deburring, I am very new at this and today I spent the day deburring holes. First I tried using the single hole deburring tool that I got in my Cleveland tool kit in a B&D elec screwdriver and I was not very impressed with the results. Even after a chamfer started to appear the hole was not smooth and I could still feel a lot of burrs. I tried taking a 1? light scotch-brite wheel in my rotozip and just barley touched it to the hole. It seemed to work great, took off all the burr and it is very smooth. However after looking closely at it is also seemed to almost round over the holes, and the holes do not have sharp edges to them. What is everyone?s thoughts? Did I ruin my piece? I put a -4 rivet in the hole and it still fits very tight.

[mcencula]

Those look good. Using the scotchbrite wheel works good for any skeleton structure which will be primed, but be cautious about using that technique on the skins if you're not going to prime them...it'll probably grind right through the alclad layer leaving a spot for corrosion to take hold.

[BSwayze]

I agree with Mike, Jeremy. Those look fine. The one-hole deburring bit is my favorite. I use mine in my battery-powered hand drill. You won't get any chattering with it. You don't need much deburring; just enough to take off any burr that might sit under a rivet and interfere.

[Mike S]

I am another "oneholer" fan.

I use a cheap electric screwdriver for the de-burring, as my regular cordless drill turns way too fast.

I usually only let the tool make two full turns in the hole, light to medium pressure.

Practice is the key-------drill and de-burr in scrap till you are happy with the results.

Good luck

[Andy Hill]

I think the tendancy is to over deburr - someone will post a Us Navy (?) link showing how rough is acceptable.

I find if 1 turn of the tool does not leave it clean, 2 more turns rarely solve it, but just take more material away. Best bet, if you are going to prime, is a 1 turn light deburr, then sand across the holes and leaves everything very smooth.

Andy

[clevtool]

Using the reamer and very little pressure should produce a very light burr. A drill bit, too much pressure, and too slow of speed will add to the burr produced.

[aarvig]

Those look good. I started with the one hole deburring bits but found that they often left a slight burr themselves. I use a simple three hole with very very very very very light pressure and only one turn. Cleans the burr off so the rivet will sit level and no chattering with this technique. The harder I push, the more chatter that occurs. I also found that the one-hole deburr bit works excellent in the #30 holes and not so well in the #40 holes. Just my experience. YMMV.

[RV7AJeremy]

for the help everyone. I am slowly figuring all this stuff out. I really appreciate the feedback.

[dpansier]

A small electric screwdriver and the Cleaveland Deburing bit are the most used tools in my shop. It has touched every hole on my aircraft less than .250" from both sides.<G>

Tools like these are widely used in machine shops to debur parts just out of the CNC machining centers.


http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2809/dsc01907w.jpg

http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/p...sp?number=DB04

[wrongway john]

Jeremy, not sure if you bought the same one hole debur tool from Cleveland Tool that I did, but it worked great for me! I only lightly turned it by hand though, not the drill.

There is a 3 bladed debur tool that many use and is popular that I was initially using, but I did not like the results at all. If you want to see just how bad deburs can look with one of those tools, get a magnifying glass. They leave a serrated edge. That's not the case with my Cleveland one-hole deburer, however, and it also looks great under a magnifying glass too.

Here is the short thread with pics, and some great advice from everyone.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ighlight=debur