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  #21  
Old 03-29-2006, 08:55 PM
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osxuser osxuser is offline
 
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I designed my own with some help from various people's designs. I started by making a plans table (kinda like a drafting table setup). I use it to store parts/hardware and plans. I then built a 8'X3' table with two shelves for storage. I put it on castors, and it has the overhang. I should take some pictures to post, but haven't got around to it yet. I also have a stone top table I put the grinder and vise on, it will eventually get all the power tools, and probably the C-frame and stuff too. This i figure should get me through the empennage.
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  #22  
Old 04-05-2006, 05:53 PM
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I built the first of 2 work tables this weekend with the help of one of my friends. Turns out he is some kind of wood working guru. The top is 7 ft by 3 ft made out of 1/2 inch particle board. Under that there is a sheet of 1/2 inch plywood. The bottom shelf is 6 ft by 27 inches. The bench is set on top of four 125 lbs lock-able wheels. The hardest thing to do was making the back riviting plate flush with the particle board. Thanks to all for the good ideas.




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RV-4 fastback thread and Pics
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The information that I post is just that; information and my own personal experiences. You need to weight out the pros and cons and make up your own mind/decisions. The pictures posted may not show the final stage or configuration. Build at your own risk.
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  #23  
Old 04-05-2006, 05:53 PM
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few more pics.





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RV-4 fastback thread and Pics
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  #24  
Old 04-05-2006, 06:30 PM
jcoloccia jcoloccia is offline
 
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re: the back rivetting plate. Maybe others will disagree, but I personally think you'll find it more useful if it's oriented the other way (vertically instead of horizontally if you want to think of it like that). This will keep your skins from hanging off while you're rivetting. Just a thought.

And good call on the DRDT...that thing rocks.
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  #25  
Old 04-06-2006, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcoloccia
re: the back rivetting plate. Maybe others will disagree, but I personally think you'll find it more useful if it's oriented the other way (vertically instead of horizontally if you want to think of it like that). This will keep your skins from hanging off while you're rivetting. Just a thought.

And good call on the DRDT...that thing rocks.

we talked about that for like 10 minutes. I guess we went the wrong way. the perfect solution was to buy another plate and form a "T" shape.
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Axel
RV-4 fastback thread and Pics
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  #26  
Old 04-06-2006, 10:31 AM
mdredmond mdredmond is offline
 
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Quote:
The hardest thing to do was making the back riviting plate flush with the particle board
How did you end up doing that?

It'd be easy with a router if you had a template - but making the template would be a (minor) pain.
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  #27  
Old 04-06-2006, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdredmond
How did you end up doing that?

It'd be easy with a router if you had a template - but making the template would be a (minor) pain.

We used a router. I made the template using the riveting plate however; cutting the edges straight and final fit was the problem. I wanted a nice fit, did not want the plate moving around. So a lot of small cuts and the final fit was done with sand paper and a little love from a rubber hammer, I think it came out ok. By the way. I drilled two 2 inch holes on the 1/2 inch plywood to facilitate removal of the particle board. Also a 1.5 inch hole under the riveting plate for the same reasons.
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RV-4 fastback thread and Pics
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  #28  
Old 04-06-2006, 01:23 PM
mdredmond mdredmond is offline
 
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Quote:
By the way. I drilled two 2 inch holes on the 1/2 inch plywood to facilitate removal of the particle board. Also a 1.5 inch hole under the riveting plate for the same reasons.

Oh, so the particle board comes off? Very cool. That is a great looking bench - I gonna build me two.
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  #29  
Old 04-06-2006, 02:03 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Just to provide a counterpoint to the above (VERY) nice benches. A couple recommendations re: benches helped me before I built mine and have since served me very well into the fuselage:

1. Don't inset the back rivet plate--Most are 1/4" thick, so just pick up some scraps of 1/4" plywood or MDF. That way you can orient the back rivet plate any direction you want... this will change depending on the size/shape/part of what you are riveting. Moreover, I think that most builders will find having longer back riveting plates (pick up from Lowes for $10) to be really helpful for doing the trailing edges where you want the entire edge weighted down while back riveting. If you do have multiple back rivet plates, the inset is less useful. Also, unless your workbench top is absolutely flat, you may not want to be back riveting trailing edges on it anyway. I use the flat surface I built for my elevators, flaps, rudder, and ailerons and the back rivet plate goes on top of that surrounded by whatever MDF or plywood is necessary to support the pieces.

2. Plan on drilling a lot of holes (many of them accidental, many intentional) on your workbench top. Plan on spilling primer on it. Plan on spilling lacquer thinner and pop on it. Make it disposable and easily replaceable.

3. If you can find good locking casters, use them. This is the one thing I would add to my benches if I stopped building long enough. However, casters that don't lock REALLY well are worse than no casters at all.

4. Plan on your shop organization to change dramatically from what you thought it was going to be before you started building airplane parts. Thus, don't spend too much time over-thinking shop organization unless you've built things like airplanes before! That was definitely true for me and I'd even done a lot of woodworking before!

Hope this helps. Have fun.
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 04-06-2006 at 02:17 PM.
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  #30  
Old 04-06-2006, 02:21 PM
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Default Workbenches

Others have discussed the top. Make sure you go with the overhang. A couple of other things I have found extremely helpful are electrical outlets under each table, I have mounted several on each table mounted to the legs so you are never out of reach of power. I have a re-windable drop down from the ceiling of my garage for power supply to the tables. I made a special cord with plugs on each end to plug the two tables into each other. This way they can be moved apart, turned, or together as necessary. I also have an airline underneath with connections at various locations to plug in those hungry air tools.
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