Catto Prop Shipping Question

Spindrift · #1 12-22-2010, 11:49 PM

Hi all,

I have to ship my 3-blade prop to Craig to adjust the pitch for my new engine, as well as to add the nickel leading edge strip. Any suggestions on how best to pack it, and who to use for shipping? Should I build a wooden crate, or is cardboard with bubble wrap enough? For those who have bought his props, how are they packed from the manufacturer?

Finally, anyone in the Portland area happen to have an appropriate crate?

Thanks,

jarvis · #2 12-23-2010, 04:03 AM

Just a big ole three-prong cardboard box--three boxes actually--fastened together with about a bazillion staples. Kinda scarey--but it worked. Regular truck freight.

RVadmirer · #3 12-23-2010, 07:51 AM

Ask Craig, he probably knows how to do it.....

Ron Lee · #4 12-23-2010, 08:44 AM

Interesting. In another recent post about the leading edge it was not certain that he would retrofit older props.

If I do it, I may make a plywood/1x6 container to ship it even if it costs more. I over do things.

Reference the picture above, when I got mine the prop was surrounded by styrofoam type material.

Spindrift · #5 12-23-2010, 11:02 AM

I don't have confirmation yet from Craig if he can do the nickel leading edge strip, but a while back I had discussed adding leading edge protection and he said he could do it. At the time I didn't think to ask what the material was, so it may have just been the tape. Either way, it has to go back, so I'll get what I can. Here in the Pacific NW, flying in rain is way too likely to not have some sort of protection.

Jarvis, thanks for the picture.

Mel · #6 12-23-2010, 11:36 AM

Craig has just finished retrofitting the new leading edges to my 2003 vintage 3-blade prop. He did have to alter the blade shape slightly. My guess is that he may not want to do another one until we see how mine does.
I should have it back next week to try it.

Ron Lee · #7 12-23-2010, 01:40 PM

Thanks Mel. I won't ask Craig about it until it has been proven workable.

roadrunner20 · #8 12-23-2010, 05:52 PM

Thanks Mel.
I may be interested as well.
Although, I think I'd like to fly out there & have Craig modify it.
Great excuse to fly from FL to CA for a summer vacation.
I'd save the crating & shipping charges.

Spindrift · #9 12-24-2010, 01:31 AM

Spoke to Craig this morning. In case someone searches 'prop shipping' like I did before posting, here's what he recommended, and what I did:

"Wrap the prop in bubble wrap till its about 6" in diameter around the blades, slap a shipping label on it and use FedEx ground because they have the most generous size allowance."

The guy at the FedEx Office didn't like that idea, and it made me nervous as well, although Craig said they've never had a problem. So I hit the recycle bin behind TJMaxx and built some boxes like the picture from jarvis. I taped some styrfoam insulation pieces around each tip, plus a bunch of bubble wrap and most of a roll of packing tape. When measured at FedEx, it came out too big, but when I assured the guy that the manufacturer ships via FedEx ground packed this way all the time, he fudged the measurement a bit until the computer accepted it. Cost me about $100 to ship FedEx ground (OR to CA), including $500 insurance which Craig recommended to cover possible damage.

As for the nickel leading edge, Craig wasn't sure it could be done as it is designed for props manufactured with the latest tooling, which is new this year. He mentioned just doing a 2003 prop (no doubt Mel's), and said he would let me know if it was possible with mine once he has it in his hands next week. My is from 2007 and was for a 200 hp engine that I'm replacing with a 180 hp, so it needs to be re-pitched.

Spindrift · #10 10-01-2011, 07:04 PM

Hi all,

Just got an email request for an update, but figured it made sense to share with everyone in case someone is reading this thread in the future.

Once Craig received the prop, his turn around was about 3 weeks or so, but I wasn't in a big hurry because my engine took longer than I thought it would. He was able to add the leading edge protection. The biggest surprise was how much the cost added up! All-in-all, it was about $900 for 2-way shipping, 3 nickel leading edges and re-pitching from 200hp to 180hp. For no additional cost since it would need painting anyway, I sent him a chip of paint and he came up with a close match for the tips. It was gray w/ white tips, now its white w/ red tips, which matches my white w/ red tail and wingtips nicely.

Being in the NW, its nice not to have to worry about flying through some rain. I've got about 65 hours on the new prop and it has performed well, and was very smooth initially. I didn't have a lot of time on it before, so I can't really speak to the comparison.

My bigger problem has to do with the combo of lightweight prop and tailwheel that rendered my baggage area virtually useless due to CG at low fuel with 2 200 pounders. At Craig's suggestion, I replaced the 1 lb crush plate with a 20 lb steel one from Saber Mfg, which gained me 18 lbs more baggage capacity. Unfortunately the initial smoothness was lost, especially at lower RPM, so getting a prop balance is on the list of things to do soon. This was recommended by both Saber and Craig, but I didn't have time before Oshkosh... or since!

YMMV and all that, but I have nothing but positive feedback for Craig. He has always been very patient with my questions and very helpful every time I've called.