Trim the fiberglass - No slots!
The fiberglass seat back should be trimmed in a smooth arc to fit with a nice constant lap over the bulkhead. I think I have about 5/8" overlap. The fiberglass edge then rests below the shoulder harness slots.
Cutting slots in the fiberglass for the shoulder harness would be a terrible idea. Every time you want to tip the seat back forward for access to the baggage compartment, you would have to thread the harness through the slot, especially difficult if you have the padded straps. Then, even once you get the seatback tipped forward, the straps would be in the way of putting anything in the back.
If you don't trim the fiberglass, the other area you will have trouble is getting the seat forward with the canopy handle in the way. Even with the fiberglass trimmed, the canopy handle is still in the way. I took a tip from (Randy Lervold, I think, I forget) and shortened my canopy handle to make clearance. Here is what I mean by 'shortened': Cut the tubular handle off of the flat plate, cut 5/8--3/4" off each end of the tube, and re-weld or braze the handle back onto the plate. This still makes a very comfortable handle, and it moves the handle outboard enough that it does not interfere with the rear seatback when you want to tip it forward to access the baggage area.
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Steve Smith
Aeronautical Engineer
RV-8 N825RV
IO-360 A1A
WW 200RV
"The Magic Carpet"
Hobbs 625
LS6-15/18W sailplane SOLD
bought my old LS6-A back!! 
VAF donation Jan 2020
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