RV Heat Help

[C-J]

Just took my first long trip up north to PA from SC. My new RV 7 performed just super, making the trip in 3.5 hours. The only issue was heat. I was flying at 9500 and froze my tail off. I have a new Lyco 360 M1B with Vans standard heat muff set up. For those that have been there before me, how can I get more BTU's. Thx CJ

[apkp777]

A set of Vetterman mufflers with the dual heat muffs and you will melt inside. I currently am only running one heat muff and I think it's going to be sufficient for our long cold WI winter.

I noticed a big improvement in the heating after installing the mufflers. Not too mention there really great for noise.

[AltonD]

Originally Posted by C-J

. . . For those that have been there before me, how can I get more BTU's. Thx CJ

Aileron push rod boots
replace the black vents with the expensive aluminum
Block off the corrugations on the baggage bulkhead.
I installed heated seats from Classic aero. I have yet to need them, but they are there when the wifey complains.

[Kyle Boatright]

Originally Posted by C-J

Just took my first long trip up north to PA from SC. My new RV 7 performed just super, making the trip in 3.5 hours. The only issue was heat. I was flying at 9500 and froze my tail off. I have a new Lyco 360 M1B with Vans standard heat muff set up. For those that have been there before me, how can I get more BTU's. Thx CJ

The easiest and best single thing you can do is seal between the slider skirts on the side and the canopy deck. That is a low pressure area and warm air is sucked out of the airplane's interior through the opening. Then, cold air is sucked in elsewhere to replace the nice warm air that exited.

The cheap and easy way to seal those gaps is to take a piece of blown foam pipe insulation - the light, flexible foam that you'd install around the copper pipe in your crawl space. Split it in half lengthwise to get two "C" shaped pieces. Then cut those pieces to a length that matches the distance between your windscreen bow and the alignment blocks that capture the aft canopy pins.

Store the foam pieces between the seats and once you close the canopy to go flying, drop 'em in between the slider tracks and the canopy skirts.

You'll be amazed at the difference this makes.

[Andy Hill]

Put SS wool (scouring pads) in the Muff... slows airflow, improves area for heat transfer

Also restrict airflow into the muff can help.

Andy

[Kyle Boatright]

Originally Posted by Andy Hill

Put SS wool (scouring pads) in the Muff... slows airflow, improves area for heat transfer

Also restrict airflow into the muff can help.

Andy

Like these:

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/stai...pk/579434.html

[Greg Arehart]

What Andy said. Works wonders. I have to barely pull out the heat knob otherwise I get cooked. I put a muff on either exhaust, one into my side of the cabin, one into her side so each of us has individual heat controls.

And sealing up the leaks is important. At 175 mph a lot of air goes through a tiny hole.

greg

[Dmadd]

vetterman exhaust with Robbins wings two pipe muff heater. Comfortable shirt sleeve temps all winter. Been to 13.5 in December in my tee shirt.

RV-4

I take it off in the summer, because heat transfer from the fire wall is plenty warm...
DM

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by AltonD

...I installed heated seats from Classic aero. I have yet to need them, but they are there when the wifey complains.

Back when I was building I thought about putting these in my -9 but then someone posted that the heated seats in their car caught fire and they almost didn't have time to pull over and get the car stopped before it burned up. Needless to say, I went without.

Back to the subject...

Try getting some exhaust wrap and just wrapping the heat muff.

[C-J]

Thank you all for taking the time to respond to my request. As a plan of attack I have done or will do the following:

1) I have the expensive Alum vents and the do shut off
2) My canopy is tight with a Fiberglass skirt and limited leaks
3) I have the aileron tube seals and the Clasic Aero interior, so it is a pretty tight cockpit, still need to seal the canopy track with the slider gizmo.

The real issue seems to be heat out put. When I pull the heat door open is flows like crazy, but only cool (not cold) air. So, I'm going to try the SS pads in the heat muff first to restrict the flow and for heat transfer. Then I may use a restricter plate if needed on the inlet and if all this still does not do the trick, I'll go to Vetterman for a heaterhttp://www.mykitlog.com/users/profil...500&height=375 solution. If anyone see's a better way, or something I missed, I'm all ears!

Thanks again, CJ