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  #1  
Old 11-03-2010, 05:53 AM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Default Power Increase Sources

I have a few more little benefit drag reduction ideas to work on for next year's racing season but I'm getting down to the "slim pickin's" part of that bag of tricks and I have already bought a BA C/S Hartzell with F7496 blades to pick up speed from thrust improvements. I am a little frontally challenged in my RV-6A against the very slick RV-8s and I have to look at the "more power" options to reel them back in. At a high level, what are the options?

Bob Axsom
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:02 AM
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Special Delivery Special Delivery is offline
 
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Default When all else fails...

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  #3  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:19 AM
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n5lp n5lp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Special Delivery View Post
What Ernie says! Ok, Ernie, how many times did you guys blow up engines with that stuff?
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  #4  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:04 AM
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airguy airguy is offline
 
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Chromed engine parts! Worth 10hp right there!
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Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:09 AM
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Special Delivery Special Delivery is offline
 
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Default Going with the flow...

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Originally Posted by n5lp View Post
What Ernie says! Ok, Ernie, how many times did you guys blow up engines with that stuff?
Well... quite a few. Nitrous is actually very predictable and easy to manage when the atmosphere is reasonably constant, but when you're racing to 40+ thousand feet the conditions are changing so rapidly it's almost impossible to manage. The use of Nitrous does however have some side effects on the male species... testosterone levels have been known to go off the chart. When you press the button...well, you remember what it feels like to be 20 again and in some small way, that experience makes the necessity of building another engine a bit more palatable.
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R. E. "Ernie" Butcher
Friends of the RV-1/Eagle's Nest Projects
"Mentors build the student...
Students build the airplane." -Glen Salmon

Dedicated to the historical preservation of the RV-1 Aircraft
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Last edited by Special Delivery : 11-03-2010 at 08:15 AM.
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  #6  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:58 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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So Ernie....we need to talk about where you're going to put the Nitrous tank in the -3....
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2010, 09:11 AM
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Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Axsom View Post
At a high level, what are the options?

Bob Axsom
Without going inside the engine (i.e. cam, compression, stroke, etc), the same as any racing engine - exhaust and intake tuning, ignition, and induction system that gives you the best MP. Wrapped exhaust (or ceramic coated) is good for power, as is keeping the induction temperatures down (dense).
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WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.

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  #8  
Old 11-03-2010, 09:16 AM
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Special Delivery Special Delivery is offline
 
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Default No substitute for power!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
So Ernie....we need to talk about where you're going to put the Nitrous tank in the -3....
All depends... if I'm consistently 2nd (or worse) in the SARL circuit, you can bet I'll find a hiding place!
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R. E. "Ernie" Butcher
Friends of the RV-1/Eagle's Nest Projects
"Mentors build the student...
Students build the airplane." -Glen Salmon

Dedicated to the historical preservation of the RV-1 Aircraft
and organized for the purposes of promoting, supporting,
fostering, and engaging in aviation and aerospace education.

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  #9  
Old 11-03-2010, 09:37 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Without going inside the engine???

HP increase is a pretty simple thing, follow the concept of getting more air in and out. Also, getting the timing to produce max cylinder pressure at the correct point of piston travel.

Ram air is an easy one.

Smoothing out all the internal passages in the intake system is a good one too-----I had a mismatched step in the elbow for my system, that was an easy 1/8" ---bit of work with a Dremel and it was gone. Matching the ports to the gaskets is an old hot rod trick, google it.

Keeping the intake charge dense as possible is free power, insulated intake tubes and ceramic coated exhaust will help. Directing heated cooling air away from the intake tubes. Cold air sump-----WARNING, if you run a carb, this is a formula for possible icing.

Ram tuning of the intake and exhaust.

Anti reversion cones in the exhaust may help---google this one too.

Good solid ignition and timing is vital to max power. Multiple spark is good.
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VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

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  #10  
Old 11-03-2010, 11:38 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Does anyone make a cold air replacement sump for a Vertical intake? When I switched from carb to FI that thought definately crossed my mind.
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