Bolting on Roll Bar Question

jimbo · #1 10-05-2010, 04:21 PM

Got the holes all drilled in the C668 spacer, roll bar mounting base, and deck. Trying to bolt on the roll bar with the spacer, washer, and nut only to have dropped the nut assembly many times trying to get a bolt on. Is there a trick to this? Of course you can't see under there and it is so tight to even get your fingers in there.

Assuming I eventually get it bolted in (using the tricks some smart nice person will post), is the roll bar on to stay or is it one of those things I will be taking off and putting on during assembly?

I have made up some special !*X!# words on this process.

Jim
RV9A

Mike S · #2 10-05-2010, 04:37 PM

I use glue stick to hold the nut to my finger.

The kind you get at Office Max or similar.

ChiefPilot · #3 10-05-2010, 05:14 PM

I just went through this process not long ago for the last time on my -6A. The trick I used is similar to what Mike suggested. In my case, I used EZ Turn fuel lube to get the "stack" stuck in place. As I recall, the process took about 20 minutes per side - 15 minutes to get the spacer/wash/nut on the bolt and 5 minutes to cuss it out properly

.

Another joy will be the canopy rails. I used platenuts on a strip of 0.020" aluminum instead of separate washers & nuts.

tadsargent · #4 10-05-2010, 05:23 PM

Ive used a 2 inch strip of tape and just catch the corner of the tape on the washer, then pull the tape when you catch the nut. I works and its not as gooey.

Paul K · #5 10-05-2010, 07:34 PM

Put a magnet on the bolt head. The washer and nut will stick and all you have to do is get them lined up and turn. I was able to get a strong magnet in a nut driver, worked like a charm.

Mike S · #6 10-05-2010, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul K

Put a magnet on the bolt head. The washer and nut will stick and all you have to do is get them lined up and turn. I was able to get a strong magnet in a nut driver, worked like a charm.

Wish I had thought of that.

ChiefPilot · #7 10-05-2010, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul K

Put a magnet on the bolt head. The washer and nut will stick and all you have to do is get them lined up and turn. I was able to get a strong magnet in a nut driver, worked like a charm.

Brilliant!

gasman · #8 10-05-2010, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbo

Got the holes all drilled in the C668 spacer, roll bar mounting base, and deck. Trying to bolt on the roll bar with the spacer, washer, and nut only to have dropped the nut assembly many times trying to get a bolt on. Is there a trick to this? Of course you can't see under there and it is so tight to even get your fingers in there.

Assuming I eventually get it bolted in (using the tricks some smart nice person will post), is the roll bar on to stay or is it one of those things I will be taking off and putting on during assembly?

I have made up some special !*X!# words on this process.

Jim
RV9A

That is the education that the FAA expects of you!

mburch · #9 10-06-2010, 05:21 AM

The forward bolts are easy - it's the aft bolts that are a pain since they're hidden by the lip of the canopy deck. I just ground a little slot in the canopy desk so I could get a socket up in there:

More than one way to skin a cat.

mcb

RV7ator · #10 10-06-2010, 07:28 AM

Sticky stuff helps get the nut/washer in place. I wrap strips of duct tape around the end of an appropriate finger at a particular point, gooey side out. But keeping the spacer on the end of the bolt can be difficult, and the rear bit is the real pain. So... I install a a short legged nutplate on the spacer. Yeah, it's a bit goofy, and takes 15 minutes, but the air isn't blue and the dog doesn't get kicked.

John Siebold