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09-27-2010, 10:54 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Cornish, NH
Posts: 391
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anyone rebuilt/replaced old style 3 port fuel valve?
I've discovered that I apparently have a slow leak between tanks on my 1995 RV-6A.
I drained the RT tank to replace a leaking drain valve. I found a couple small aluminum flakes between the valve o-ring and seat. I removed them and reinstalled the valve, which then didn't leak. But I'd also noticed some tiny age cracks in the valve o-ring when it was compressed by being seated, so I ordered a new valve and some new valve o-rings from ACS.
When I got the new parts a week or so later and went to put them in, I found I had at least 5-6 gallons of fuel in the RT tank that had drained over from the LT tank. The fuel selector valve was in the LT position through all this.
Van's web catalog says the older 3 port valve is no longer available and installing their new valve will necessitate modifying the fuel lines.
Has anyone with an older fuel valve repaired it? Are they repairable/repackable?
Or if anyone has swapped out the old valve for either the new Van's valve or the Andair valve, how much trouble was it and to what extent did you have modify the fuel lines?
thanks,
brian
__________________
Brian Meyette, Cornish, NH
1995 RV-6A - N16RK (Ralph Koger) SOLD
RV-7A - incomplete, supercharged Subaru STi - N432MM - SOLD
2001 Quad City Challenger II LW - N28RT SOLD
www.meyette.us/RV-7Ahome.htm
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09-27-2010, 11:54 AM
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been here awhile
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,300
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no need to drain tank
This doesn't answer your question, but next time you need to replace the drain valve, there is no need to drain the tank. Have the replacement valve (or a 1/8" pipe thread plug, I carry one in the flight kit), and wrench handy, and by quickly plugging the hole with your finger while you get the replacement valve in hand you can replace the valve without losing hardly any fuel. I've had the o-ring let go a couple of times and valve replacement is a simple two minute job even with fuel in the tank.
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09-27-2010, 01:14 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
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Brian, The Van's fuel valve is easy to repair. Drain your tanks and then pull up on the selector handle, it should lift about 1/16" this will unseat it. Now, back off the screw holding the lever on the shaft. Tap under it to unseat it from the shaft. Take a wrench and unscrew the cover/nut and remove the valve from the body. The "O" rings are standard AUTO PARTS items.
If the valve has a detente, you can make the valve work smoother by cutting one loop off of the spring.
This is a great simple cheap valve. Once you open it up, you will understand.
ps.......... you can purchase this valve at most hardware stores.
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09-27-2010, 01:48 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,275
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Thanks Sam. Another spare part I need to carry if not already in the plane (plug or spare drain valve).
Gasman, a year or so ago I removed the selector valve to lubricate it. If someone remembers the correct lubricant, that will help me since I forgot.
But I believe that I had the tanks down to one-half or so and there was no fuel leakage when I took the valve innards out.
Of course maybe I was down to 1/4 tank. Regardless, I do not recall draining the tanks.
Last edited by Ron Lee : 09-27-2010 at 01:52 PM.
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09-27-2010, 02:34 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Lee
Thanks Sam. Another spare part I need to carry if not already in the plane (plug or spare drain valve).
Gasman, a year or so ago I removed the selector valve to lubricate it. If someone remembers the correct lubricant, that will help me since I forgot.
But I believe that I had the tanks down to one-half or so and there was no fuel leakage when I took the valve innards out.
Of course maybe I was down to 1/4 tank. Regardless, I do not recall draining the tanks.
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The valve itself does not need lubrication. It is nylon to brass in a spring taper fit. You could use FUEL LUBE on the "O" rings if you want to.
What makes these valves get tight is the spring is too firm. Cut off one loop. You can also re-seat the valve anytime by just lifting on the handle.
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09-27-2010, 03:12 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 937
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Brian, I'm not familiar with the differences between a "new" and "old" Vans fuel selector valve but if you need a circa 2005, never used Vans valve, its yours for the asking. Your old engine build website was a huge help to me when overhauling my engine.
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Highest Regards,
Noah F, RV-7A
All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men? for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible. -T.E. Lawrence
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09-28-2010, 01:12 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah
Brian, I'm not familiar with the differences between a "new" and "old" Vans fuel selector valve but if you need a circa 2005, never used Vans valve, its yours for the asking. Your old engine build website was a huge help to me when overhauling my engine.
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Brian, I just got a heads up on the old valve...... brass on brass.....
Take this offer and change to the better valve..............
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09-28-2010, 08:00 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Cornish, NH
Posts: 391
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thanks
Many thanks to all who have responded. Noah has kindly offered to send me one at no charge, so I am all set there.
brian
__________________
Brian Meyette, Cornish, NH
1995 RV-6A - N16RK (Ralph Koger) SOLD
RV-7A - incomplete, supercharged Subaru STi - N432MM - SOLD
2001 Quad City Challenger II LW - N28RT SOLD
www.meyette.us/RV-7Ahome.htm
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