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  #1  
Old 08-11-2010, 04:35 PM
RVGator RVGator is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Gainesville Florida
Posts: 25
Default New guy looking for suggestions

I am in the planning/prep stages for an RV-7 build. I'm looking for advice on getting started. Forgive me if all my questions have been addressed in previous threads. I got many answers, these are the ones I missed.

Specifically I need a little advice on tools and workshop layout. A floor plan would be great. How much and what kind of shelf-space should I have? Does anyone have a cool solution for sharing a two car garage workshop with bikes and toys? How much empty wall space should I have for hanging wings, tools, and motivational posters of the finished product?

As for tools, are those RV tool kits from Avery or Cleveland a good way to go? I found a Rivet Gun Kit that looked like a good deal (AT590RGK 3X RIVET GUN KIT) from Aircraft Spruce. Do you suggest I piece together a set of tools?

Does anyone have a good plan for a web based builders log?

That should do it for now. Thanks for the advice.

Dave
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  #2  
Old 08-11-2010, 05:17 PM
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FresnoR FresnoR is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 479
Default Welcome Dave

Welcome to the world of RV's!

For the Empennage, a nice work shelf and rolling toolbox is all you really need. I just use a simple inexpensive craftsman one and keep all my Aircraft tools in it. That way I can roll it to wherever I need it. Check into building the EAA work shelf. I would also hang your bikes (i assume bicycles) and other toys from the ceiling or walls, that will give you the most floor space.

Try not to overbuild your workshop right away. I think sometimes we use the "preparation" excuse to procrastinate ordering the first part of the kit.

Since the Empennage does not take all that much room to build, you can use that as a measure for the space you need for the next portion of the kits. And what works best for you.

Even in regards to an air compressor, unless you run an air drill you can get by with a very small unit. I built my entire empennage kit with a Dewalt electric drill, a 1 gallon 1 hp compressor, and the Cleveland tool kit.

The one thing you will hear most often is, just get started.
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RV-7A


The art to flying lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.
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  #3  
Old 08-11-2010, 05:19 PM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
Default Welcome to VAF!!!!

Dave, welcome aboard

Good to have you here, enjoy.
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Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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  #4  
Old 08-11-2010, 06:12 PM
roee roee is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego, CA, U.S.A.
Posts: 770
Default

Ahh, fresh meat! Welcome, Dave.

To answer your questions:

The tool sets from Avery or Cleveland are a very good starting point. They're good quality, a good value, and will save you a lot of time versus piecing together your own. I'm sure that Avery and Cleveland will happily let you make changes to their standard tool sets, like say if you want to omit the rivet gun because you already have on.

Your floor plan needs will change throughout the different stages of the project, so don't try to come up with a single arrangement right now that will last the duration of the project. Initially (empennage) you will actually need very little space. Later, you'll likely end up consuming most of the garage.

A good large flat/level workbench is essential (mine is 8 ft x 3 ft). It can go against a wall, although for certain tasks having access from both sides is a nice-to-have. Again, don't shy away from re-arranging the furniture occasionally to suit the changing needs of the project.

Your shelf space needs will also vary throughout the project. I use a couple of modular free-standing shelving units in addition to some stationary shelving in the garage... and one bedroom... Again, no need to plan ahead too far on this. Stay flexible, and get more shelving as you need it.

Most important advice for getting started: Order the kit and get started!
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San Diego, CA, U.S.A.
RV-7A under construction
www.kalinskyconsulting.com/rvproj/
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  #5  
Old 08-11-2010, 06:50 PM
terrye terrye is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 860
Default Get Started

I agree with all of the above. And don't try to anticipate ALL your space/layout needs in advance, this will change during your project.

You can anticipate a good FLAT workbench, however. Read ahead in the preview plans, especially for the elevators, rudder, flaps and ailerons. They stress a FLAT, LEVEL workbench with an MDF top that you can drill into for clecos. I originally built a very nice workbench with steel legs and a plywood top. When I got to the elevators and checked the workbench for flatness, well, it wasn't. Van's says to build a frame of 2x4s and make a MDF top and bottom. Well all of the 2x4s in my local builders supply were bent and getting worse as I looked at them.

I ended up building a frame of 2"x4" aluminum channels bolted together with MDF bolted to the top. Worked excellent, although a bit expensive. Still, it was FLAT when I built it and it is still FLAT. The only trouble is it is clamped to the workbench that I built and so ended up a bit higher than I would have liked. I guess that's what stools are for. If I had planned ahead on my workbench, I would have bolted the aluminum 2"x4" channels directly to the steel legs.
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  #6  
Old 08-11-2010, 07:31 PM
RVGator RVGator is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Gainesville Florida
Posts: 25
Default

Wow. Thanks for the great welcome.

This is great info. Terrye, would you be able to post a picture of your bench? I have two nice benches in the corner but it sounds like I need one in the middle of the workspace. Hey, it will limit where the kids lay down their bikes!

I like the advice to just get started - though I'm still working on how to break it to the wife. I was planning to start with the practice projects (tool box and air foil) since I know nothing about riveting. I also plan to take an EAA class in Nov. I'm concerned about scratching skins with poor rivet gun technique.

The tool advice makes things a lot simpler for sure!
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RV-7
Started Emp 1/12/11
Finished HS 5/6/11
Finished VS 5/27/11
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  #7  
Old 08-11-2010, 07:33 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,428
Default

A workbench mistake I made, well, two of them, might be worth mentioning.

The first one was that it was four feet by eight feet, and four feet is too wide to reach across.

The second and more serious mistake was that I made it too heavy for me to move around by myself.
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  #8  
Old 08-11-2010, 09:28 PM
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FresnoR FresnoR is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 479
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yachabach View Post
though I'm still working on how to break it to the wife. !
You can always tell her if you can't start building an airplane you'll just have to buy each of your kids their own drum set
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RV-7A


The art to flying lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.
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  #9  
Old 08-11-2010, 10:46 PM
terrye terrye is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yachabach View Post
Terrye, would you be able to post a picture of your bench?
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures and only have a film camera so it would take quite a while to get the pix developed and posted. But here is a bit more of a description. Legs were preformed steel purchased from a metal warehouse shelf distributor. Each leg assembly has two vertical legs, a top crossmember for the top and an intermediate crossmember for a shelf. The handy thing about these leg assemblies is that they were prepunched with a knockout electrical receptacle on each of the legs, so I wired it up with four 110V outlets. The aluminum framed top is 2' wide x 8' long. Perimeter members and 4 crossmembers are 2"x4" aluminum channel (1/4" flanges and 3/16" webs) joined at the corners with a piece of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3/16" angles and 5/16" bolts. Two sheets of 3/4" MDF are bolted to the top. Originally I had 2 x 3/4" thick plywood for a bench top. Now I have the aluminum frame clamped to the bench top. If I were to build it again, I would eliminate the plywood bench top and just bolt the aluminum frame to the leg assemblies.

Last edited by terrye : 08-13-2010 at 01:55 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-11-2010, 11:21 PM
FresnoR's Avatar
FresnoR FresnoR is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 479
Default Bench

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=48278

Try this link, but use 3/4" or thicker mdf as the top.
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The art to flying lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.
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