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08-09-2010, 08:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 174
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Condition of an engine in long term storage
This is a continuation of my intro thread. I have a friend who's grandfather has an RV kit in his basement unopened. There is an engine included, also never opened from its shipping crate. The grandfather is starting to show signs of some form of mild dementia so getting details out of him is really tough.
Based on what details I've gotten so far, it seems like it might be an 0-320. My question is...A: how do I determine for sure that it is that engine, and B: Being that it's been in a crate for 15 ish years...how do I determine its condition/history? Obviously if it's used, it should hopefully have logs with it, correct? Or, if it's new...how do I know if it's still in new shape? Thanks!
Last edited by Phlyan Pan : 08-09-2010 at 08:32 PM.
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08-09-2010, 09:00 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 211
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You should be able to find the logbook for the engine someplace, but if nothing else there's a data plate on the right side of the engine block under the cylinders where you'll find the engine model number and serial number.
As for condition, that's a little tougher. Your best bet is to look at the logbook but if you can't find it you may need to have an A&P borescope the cylinders.
__________________
Wheeler Express Builder
Waiting on the -12
CFII/MEI
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08-10-2010, 04:36 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Ga
Posts: 7,840
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For a thorough exam....
...a cylinder needs to come off. You can then use a flashlight to examine the cam lobes for rust, crank for the same and look up into the other cylinders.
Best,
__________________
Pierre Smith
RV-10, 510 TT
RV6A (Sojourner) 180 HP, Catto 3 Bl (502Hrs), gone...and already missed
Air Tractor AT 502B PT 6-15 Sold
Air Tractor 402 PT-6-20 Sold
EAA Flight Advisor/CFI/Tech Counselor
Louisville, Ga
It's never skill or craftsmanship that completes airplanes, it's the will to do so,
Patrick Kenny, EAA 275132
Dues gladly paid!
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08-10-2010, 06:56 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierre smith
...a cylinder needs to come off. You can then use a flashlight to examine the cam lobes for rust, crank for the same and look up into the other cylinders.
Best,
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Is that something I can legally do as a non-A&P? I'm fairly handy with mechanical stuff but all of my experience is on cars. I wouldn't want to do something that might detract from the value of the engine.
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08-10-2010, 06:59 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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If it's a certificated engine and you want to keep it so, you need to have an A&P do it. I would really recommend that in any case. An A&P knows what he is looking for. Aircraft engines are very simple but they are quite different from automotive engines.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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08-10-2010, 10:35 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 937
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One thing to watch for
If you do remove the cylinder yourself you should probably get the service manual which has a disassembly procedure. You can damage the case half where the cylinder seals if you're not careful by letting the connecting rod fall against the case and indent it. Make sure you support the connecting rod as you pull the cylinder off and the piston wants to fall down. That is, if the engine is horizontal. With the engine vertical attached to an engine rebuild stand, this won't happen.
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Highest Regards,
Noah F, RV-7A
All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men? for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible. -T.E. Lawrence
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08-10-2010, 12:50 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 174
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Update:
Upon realizing some of the issues involved...I will not be doing any work on this engine myself. Too much liability for an engine that isn't my own.
Second portion of the update: we were able to get a picture of the shipping crate with a serial number on it. After about 20 minutes on the phone with Lycoming, it turns out the engine is an IO-360-A1A rather than the original assumed O-320. We're going to look into finding the logbooks and whatnot next...then maybe start looking for an A&P to inspect it.
This is quite an interesting process. I feel like a detective  Thanks everyone for the help so far. I'm sure more questions will come.
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08-10-2010, 12:59 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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If this is a new properly pickled engine, you might have a real gem there!!!
On the other hand, if it was a used motor that was ran hard and put up wet, you might have a pile of junk....
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08-10-2010, 01:14 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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Actually the environment in which the engine was stored has MUCH to do with the condition. An engine can be stored here in North Texas for many years without damage if it is in a place where the temperature and humidity have a relatively small "swing". In a basement in New York, I don't know!
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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08-18-2010, 01:02 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 174
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Just as an update in case anyone was wondering on this one...we opened up the crate and got the log book out along with some other paperwork.
The engine has about 1200 TT on it with 0 SMOH from Lycoming. It was also rebuilt as a 180 hp AEIO-360-B2F at that time. Unfortunately, this was in 1992 and the engine has sat in its crate in a basement since that date. According to Lycoming and Penn Yan, this means it will need a full overhaul since it's over the 12 year mark which could run anywhere between $20k and $25k.
I've made an offer on it based on the core value of the engine (according to Penn Yan) so hopefully I'll hear back soon and can find this engine a good home.
Thanks again all for the help.
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