Paint Question

[DanH]

Nothing special Chris....routine body shop stuff. The pros don't spray a perfect finish every time. They cut and buff to get it right.

Here's the latest from 3M:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...ts/Perfect-It/

I really like the new 3M compounds you see in the video. Obviously they want to sell every product them make but you may not need them all, in particular on light colors. I'm using a 1500 Trizact disk, then going directly to a buffer with a white foam pad and 3000 compound, followed by a black foam pad for the machine polish.

I'm a used car dealer; this is what I buy for my detail shop....good buffer:

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/Product...7;3a+Polishers

A wool pad might be a bit too aggressive given our rivet and panel edge issues. Speaking of edges, notice the practice of taping for protection.

Yes, I shot it myself, in my home shop, which I built to include a paint booth of sorts. Three coats of clear over enough base to cover.

Here's a "before" photo for comparison. Ok, but can be better. It can be much worse and you can still save it with sanding, if you have enough material on the surface.



Ugly sight...old man sweating and swearing, spraying wings today, 90F+ in the booth.

[RV8R999]

Dan - do you worry about rivets when using the 1500 or hasn't that been a factor in your experience? The video is enlightening but obviously the trunk of the car isn't as challenging.

I have a product called Norton Ice which from a process point of view appears to be very similar to 3M. However I was going to do the sanding the old fashion way with 2000 and a block. I think I like the disks better

Haven't used it yet as I'm waiting for a least 30 days of cure time.

Wings looking good!

[DanH]

My first step in the paint process has been to scuff the whole surface for tooth with a 400 grit stick-on sanding disk on a firm pad. Mostly I do it for tooth but sanding has two other benefits.

Obviously all rivet heads should be flat and flush; the sanding disk will show you any which are not. Sand, shave, or replace and they won't haunt you later.

Little dents or dings are highlighted on the first pass. Mark them with a dot of tape and come back to fill them.

[miyu1975]

Dan your paint job is superb. two thumbs up. I am assuming you are sanding and buffing and then applying clear coat last right?... Curious as I plan to start painting very soon.

[DanH]

Originally Posted by miyu1975

Dan your paint job is superb. two thumbs up. I am assuming you are sanding and buffing and then applying clear coat last right?... Curious as I plan to start painting very soon.

Thank you.

When everything is going well there is no sanding or buffing until after the last coat of clear.

Need to fix a screwup in the base coat prior to clear? You can wet sand metallic or pearl base with 800, but you must then shoot more base before going to clear. I'm told you can wet sand a solid base with 600-800 and go directly to clear. Nothing sees the buffer until eveything is done.

Haven't used it yet as I'm waiting for a least 30 days of cure time.

Ken, that seems to be a holdover belief from the good ole days. Most body shops seem to cut and buff at 24 hours, less if force-cured. Check the data sheet for your paint.

[PainterJohn]

I highly recommend "cutting and buffing" your finish when painting is complete.

Give it a little time to fully cure before sanding and buffing. But if you are having large orange peal problems when you are spraying, check you mixture ratio, check the temprature rating for the reducer, and check your air preasure.

typically the last 2 numbers in the stock number for your reducer is he temprature rating.. example "XX885" depending on the brand the first digits will be different but the last 2 designate it as 85 degree. This will work from 80 to 95 degrees.

This is how it normally lays out right from the gun,


This is what it looks like after I buffed it (graphics are on now too)

This is the RV on Sam James front page. It is N267RV that i painted about 4 years ago.. just saw it last month and still looks great!

If you plan to ad another coat of clear to your wetsanded top coat.. DO NOT BUFF IT. It needs those micro fine scratches to bind the new clear to your cured and sanded clear below. The compound will cause adheasion problems and chemical reactions with the new clear, that will not buff out.. as it will not stick!

[LifeofReiley]

I sent PainterJohn a PM... Grady told me a year ago I would be up June 2010 and I still have not heard a word back. Oh well... there's a lot of great paint shops out there.

[PainterJohn]

i got your pm(s) Rieley
thanks!

[LifeofReiley]

I need to fly over next week... PM Sent