Tool type and brand

[Roland Abrahams]

Hi
Can anyone list the rivet gun (2x 3x etc.) and rivet sets, bucking bars and rivet squeezer I would need to get stated build my 7 tail? I have most other tools from building a sonex, but don't want to buy stuff and have to buy them over again. Iam thinking of a DRDT-2

Thanks
Roland

[JonJay]

Have RV builder starter kits. They list their materials and typically show a picture too. You could start there and compare against what you already have.
If you want to upgrade, look to Sioux as a premium brand.

[RV7Ron]

I went with the Isham RV kit and they were very cooperative in deleting/crediting items that I already had...I think the others do this too. That might be an option for you.

[clevtool]

The 2X will do all of the rivets in the QB kits if you use the proper weight of bucking bar. If you are doing a standard build kit you will need the larger gun for a handful of longer 1/8" rivets. Most builders do better out of the gate with a 2X gun as there is more "forgiveness" with the lighter hit. Once you gain experience the 3X is really better because you are hitting the material fewer times and at a slower rate. We have made a video to demonstrate this, you can see it at: http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/p...sp?number=RG2X

Mike @ Cleaveland Tool

[terrye]

I initially bought a 2X Atlas Copco rivet gun, but eventually found I had trouble setting the 1/8" rivets in the elevator counterweight brackets. Messed up quite a few and drilled them out, eventually had to put a couple of 5/32" rivets in. Then later when setting 1/8" rivets in the aileron brackets, had more trouble and tried out a 3X Atlas Copco gun. Instant success! So I had to buy another gun. Right now this is an ideal setup, but rather expensive. If you can afford it, I would recommend buying a good brand name of 2X and 3X guns from Avery, Cleaveland, Brown, etc. Then you don't have to worry about whether it is your skill or the wrong gun. For rivet sets, my guns came with a flat set for flush head rivets, I got a 3-1/2" and a 12" universal head set. I would recommend some intermediate lengths as well. For bucking bars, all you need is one good tungsten bar, say the 5/8" x 1" x 4" with a 15 degree angle on one end. The high density of the tungsten makes this a heavier bar than iron or steel bars twice its size. It is especially convenient for riveting the skins to the spars in the control surfaces. I have a C-frame dimpler which I am satisfied with, but you will need to build a table to support the workpiece while you are dimpling. I also have a Chicago Pneumatic rivet squeezer which is my favorite tool. I haven't tried a manual squeezer, but if you are doing solo riveting, I think the pneumatic one will be much easier to use. You'll need a bunch of rivet dies for this including dimpling, flat and universal head. Any of the CP clones from the major tool suppliers should be OK, I bought CP to ensure replacement parts would always be available. Haven't needed any so far.

[John Tierney]

Don't forget a back rivet set and back rivet plate. You'll need this for stiffeners.

[DEWATSON]

You can't beat the DRDT-2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Mike S]

Roland, welcome to VAF

Give Avery or Cleavland a call, tell them what you already own, and see what they recommend for filling out your tool assortment.

DRDT-2 is well worth buying-----you can often find them used, and resale is very easy.

Good to have you here.