proseal mixing

[jhearnsberger]

Well... I forgot to bring my postal scale home from the office, so I decided use what I had in the tube as Bob suggested. I got everything set up and ran through the whole process with my wife. I set the kitchen timer to 30 minutes and away we went. After mixing the 3.5oz tube, I squeezed it into 2 2oz syringes. We were finishing up the last elevator within the last 5 minutes.

I did not attempt to wipe the excess proseal off of the edges. I figured I would make a bigger mess trying to clean it up.

Thank you all for you help.

[Transporter]

You'll be able to clean up the Proseal during the next day or so using MEK. Good luck,

Mike

[ReidVaitor]

I think doing the tanks was actually pretty fun. I mentally stressed out that every rivet was prosealed and until I knew for sure that there were no leaks it was pretty mentally draining, but in the end the dread I heard about the tanks made the experience pretty stressful. In truth it is the most "attention to detail" one needs to do, it is sticky and if there is ever a shirt one wants to get rid of, or a few for that matter, use it for prosealing, but doing the tanks really wasn't that bad at all, for the -10 I used every bit that I needed and still had plenty left over from the Qt, that was two years ago, I just put the side vents on using the same (room temperature the whole time) proseal and the proseal still stuck without any issues. After 90 days get new proseal if used for the tanks otherwise for gluing parts the stuff will last, on the garage shelf, for the whole build.
Just my experience!

Pascal
RV-10

[johngoodman]

Not a big deal, but keep in mind that Van's will always tell you that the plans are guidelines/ suggestions. You are the builder. So, you can actually use anything you want - try some JB Weld, for instance. Van always calls for ProSeal because they must have a giant pot of it always ready to go.
John

[Mel]

[quote=johngoodman;448954] You are the builder. So, you can actually use anything you want - try some JB Weld, for instance. /QUOTE]

Although J-B Weld is great stuff and I use it often, be careful using it where things have to flex and/or affected by vibration. J-B Weld when fully hardened is not flexible and is subject to cracking.

[Kellym]

Originally Posted by jhearnsberger

I may just trash the tube and use the quart. Just so I will start out on the right foot. I have a good digital postal scale I can use.

So just to clarify.... if I put .10 lb of part A, I would add .01 of part B to make .11 lb?

I just got the 1/2 oz vials from Vans. You have to be ready and work without delay to complete the sealing in the 30 min working time, but you don't need more than the 1/2 oz

Kelly
40866 in Fiberglass ****.

[Jhotovec]

Here is an excellent method for using the 2 or 3-1/2 oz. tubes of pro seal:
First, carefully remove the black hardner tube from the center of the white tube.

Carefully remove enough of the label on the dispenser tubes so that you can mark the tube in 1/8th increments along its length. This is easy, just mark with a felt-tip pen at 1/2 the distance from the end of the tube to the bottom of the plastic plunger. Now you have 1/2 portions marked out. Repeat for fourths and repeat again for 1/8th increments. Do the same to the hardner tube. Remember that all of the hardner mixed with all of the white compound is a perfect 10 to 1 mix for the whole tube. Now it is easy to dispense 1/8 compound and 1/8 hardner for a small job.

Go out and buy a $1.79 caulk gun from your local hardware store. It can be adapted to the extruder tube by inserting a ~ 3/4 inch socket into the tube to back the flat part of the plunger. The caulk gun plunger will just fit inside the dispenser tube and butt against the socket and the socket will butt against the flat part of the plunger.

Just release the caulking gun tension once you have dispensed what you need so that the tension doesn't cause more to be forced out.

Then carefully pull the rubber stopper partly out of the hardner tube ( it won't come all the way out) and dispense 1/8 of the hardner into the resin. Then puts the stopper back in. Also, don't use the screw in nozzle for dispensing as that amount of resin will not go into the mix and will screw up the proportions of the mix. Just put a piece of duct tape over the outlet to keep the unused resin fresh.

Put the unused stuff in the fridge to preserve it's freshness.

1422 (proseal) can be bought pre mixed, but it is stored at -80F.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by paul mosher

1422 (proseal) can be bought pre mixed, but it is stored at -80F.

Spruce also sells a one component version that can be dispensed from a HW store caulking gun. With this you can skip the entire mixing process.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/...ts/al13064.php



Not expensive at $9 for 5 oz or so.

I just bought some for firewall sealing and it acts and feels like ProSeal with all of the usual sticky, gooey properties - it just takes a little longer to cure.

I'm not sure if I would use it on an actual fuel tank, but for things like the trailing edges it would be cheaper and easier.

No deep freeze needed for this one.