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07-01-2010, 01:38 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Baffles, aft baffle mounted oil cooler, and reinforcements...
It seems that the newer baffle design is no more immune to cracks on the aft rear baffle when the oil cooler is mounted there than the old one...
Anyone not flying yet, do yourself a favor and beef this area up before flying!!!
I was naive and built mine per plans thinking the new brace design might solve the problem....wrong! Within 25 hrs I started seeing cracks in the corner. My prop has been dynamically balanced and the engine runs smooth. I have kept a close eye on the issue and it is soon to be repaired. I just purchased the $60+ worth of replacement parts in order to rebuild the aft rear baffle.
I plan to beef this area up greatly and add an angle brace.
If you have good ideas for beef up that you would like to share with me and others to come, please share them with us....
After contacting Van's about the fact that their baffle kit design is almost guaranteed to fail if built per the plans, the reply was something like we know it stinks, do the best you can with it, hopefully you will come up with a solution that will work for you, it is not our problem....not the best answer!!!
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07-01-2010, 01:43 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lutz FL
Posts: 116
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Mount it on the fire wall.
__________________
Jeff Radtke
Lutz, FL
RV-7A - SOLD
RV-7A - New Build
Tail Feathers - Complete
ER Wings - Complete
Fuselage - Complete
Finish - Started
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07-01-2010, 02:08 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Locust Grove, GA
Posts: 2,624
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I have never mounted my oil coolers on the baffles. If you have room, mount it on the Firewall. I have managed to do that on my 6, 7A, and of course the 10. No problems, with lots of hours. I also believe that mounting them on the baffles provides an extra source of heat which the cooler needs to reject.
Vic
__________________
 Vic Syracuse
Built RV-4, RV-6, 2-RV-10's, RV-7A, RV-8, Prescott Pusher, Kitfox Model II, Kitfox Speedster, Kitfox 7 Super Sport, Just Superstol, DAR, A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor, CFII-ASMEL/ASES
Kitplanes "Unairworthy" monthly feature
EAA Sport Aviation "Checkpoints" column
EAA Homebuilt Council Chair/member EAA BOD
Author "Pre-Buy Guide for Amateur-Built Aircraft"
www.Baselegaviation.com
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07-01-2010, 02:25 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Quincy, Florida
Posts: 680
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Vic,
Could you post a picture or two of your installation.......that's what I'm working on now. Thanks.
David Watson
49FD
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07-01-2010, 02:43 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Locust Grove, GA
Posts: 2,624
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I'll try to do that this week end if I get a chance.
Vic
__________________
 Vic Syracuse
Built RV-4, RV-6, 2-RV-10's, RV-7A, RV-8, Prescott Pusher, Kitfox Model II, Kitfox Speedster, Kitfox 7 Super Sport, Just Superstol, DAR, A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor, CFII-ASMEL/ASES
Kitplanes "Unairworthy" monthly feature
EAA Sport Aviation "Checkpoints" column
EAA Homebuilt Council Chair/member EAA BOD
Author "Pre-Buy Guide for Amateur-Built Aircraft"
www.Baselegaviation.com
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07-01-2010, 02:46 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Canby, Oregon
Posts: 1,786
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Brantel, this has work well for me...
The picture should make is clear.
I use a piece of .063 angle and AN3 bolt.
I have seen this same fix going to the left side baffle instead of the engine.
Kent
__________________
Kent Byerley
RV9A N94KJ - IO320, CS, tipup
AFS 3500, TT AP, FLYING....
Canby, Or
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07-01-2010, 03:02 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,476
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__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
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07-01-2010, 03:04 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Thanks Kent,
I have seen your brace before and plan to do something similar or the same.
Thanks!!!
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07-01-2010, 03:11 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Canby, OR
Posts: 22
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add chromoly angle
Mine cracked at 100 hours. I added a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 4130 .032 chromoly angle on the outside where it cracked and no problems in the 600 hours since. One side of the angle runs forward towards the cylinder head, and the other side runs outboard.
Look at Randy Lervold's oil cooler plenum here.
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/FW...llforward.html
Originally I had .032 alum. angle where Randy has 1/8' alum. angle on the forward side of the outboard edge of the plenum. When my .032 alum. angle piece cracked, I replaced it with .032 chromoly which resolved the problem. It looks like Randy used 1/8" 3/4 alu. angle there from the get-go to avoid the cracking issue. Either will work.
The plenum works well. My CHT's are always below 300 degrees in cruise, and I have to reduce the opening to the oil cooler in the winter to get 180 degree oil temps. I used a fly cutter to cut two holes in the backside of the baffle above the cylinders to let air into the plenum, and riveted a platenut between the holes on the oil cooler side. One hole is larger than the other. I can cover either or both with one or the other piece of alum. sheet to vary air flow and therefore the oil temp for Papa Bear, Momma Bear or Baby Bear settings. In Oregon winters, covering the larger hole works juusst right. Or you can mount the fancy shutter Van's sells in front of the cooler like Randy did.
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07-01-2010, 03:15 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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It works
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel
Thanks Kent,
I have seen your brace before and plan to do something similar or the same.
Thanks!!!
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Cruise the posts and you will find many similar ways. I used steel tubing and formed tabs on the end. 300 plus hours, solid as a rock.
__________________
Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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