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  #1  
Old 06-20-2010, 07:20 PM
HighSchoolBuilders HighSchoolBuilders is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hong Kong
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Default Countersunk too deep...

Hi all,

Does anyone know what is the tolerance for countersink? I was countersinking on the Z brackets for my tank, I didn't enlarge the hole, but it definitely went deeper than the rivet head. Should I replace the bracket?

Many thanks!
Hank
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RV8 Super Slow Build Kit
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Completed RTW journey in 2016
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2010, 07:37 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
Smile This is the specification --

Quote:
Originally Posted by HighSchoolBuilders View Post
Hi all,

Does anyone know what is the tolerance for countersink? I was countersinking on the Z brackets for my tank, I didn't enlarge the hole, but it definitely went deeper than the rivet head. Should I replace the bracket?

Many thanks!
Hank
3.3.6 Countersunk rivet head flushness. Unless otherwise specified on the engineering drawing or specification, flushness limits shall be 0.010 inch above to 0.005 inch below the material surface. Countersink diameters are provided in Table IV for reference

The entire document I created is now on Vans web site...

http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/Specs.htm
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  #3  
Old 06-20-2010, 08:14 PM
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danielhv danielhv is offline
 
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Location: Mesquite, TX
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HighSchoolBuilders View Post
Hi all,

Does anyone know what is the tolerance for countersink? I was countersinking on the Z brackets for my tank, I didn't enlarge the hole, but it definitely went deeper than the rivet head. Should I replace the bracket?

Many thanks!
Hank
I wouldn't. The countersunk rivets are not structual... they simply hold the nutplates in place. I'd slap a rivet in there and move on. May even try an "oops" rivet.

Build on.
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  #4  
Old 06-21-2010, 09:05 AM
RV6AussieNick RV6AussieNick is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 166
Default

Do you have access to a Lathe, you can make up a countersink filler out of some 7075 T6 material to the depth that you CSK by mistake, then CSK the filler to the required depth of the rivets your using, use the filler under the head of the rivet and away you go, the other thing to keep in mind is that you haven't knife edged the material, one rivet might be OK depending on where it is.. If you have alodine 1200 and a decent primer, that will help against the possibility of corrosion later on.

Nick..
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  #5  
Old 06-21-2010, 09:21 AM
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Phil Phil is offline
 
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Location: Waco, Texas
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Default

Might be possible to countersink a bit more and use an AN426-AD5 rivet in there too...

Phil
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  #6  
Old 06-21-2010, 09:24 AM
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aparchment aparchment is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: South Hamilton, MA
Posts: 521
Default Another approach

I have also seen Van's recommend using JB Weld to fill the hole, then redo the countersink at the correct depth. I was surprised that JB weld is so strong.
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2010, 09:27 AM
HighSchoolBuilders HighSchoolBuilders is offline
 
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Location: Hong Kong
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Default

Many thanks! I don't think I can get a -5 in because it's limited to the size of the platenut. I will see if I can get a photo and see what you guys think, thanks!

Hank
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RV8 Super Slow Build Kit
Titan IOX360, Catto 3 Blades RV prop, Full Dynon everything + Garmin GTN650

First RV in Hong Kong
First Homebuilt aircraft registered in Hong Kong "B-KOO"
Completed RTW journey in 2016
Built with a group of High School Students
Aircraft donated to the Hong Kong Science Museum
In memory of Michael Tam
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  #8  
Old 06-21-2010, 10:11 AM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
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Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
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Couple of things you can do. Firstly, if it is only slightly oversunk then it will pull in when you squeeze it. Secondly, if it is deeper but the hole is not enlarged then you can make a drift by inverting another rivet on top and squeezing the 2 together.

Sent you a PM.
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  #9  
Old 06-21-2010, 01:09 PM
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shuttle shuttle is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul330 View Post
you can make a drift by inverting another rivet on top and squeezing the 2 together.
I can second that inverted rivet idea. On my QB fuse as it came from the factory, some of the rivets holding the seat ribs to the spar flange were loose due to a slightly over-deep countersink. An extra squeeze with the inverted CS rivet on top easily fixed it.
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  #10  
Old 06-21-2010, 03:24 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuttle View Post
I can second that inverted rivet idea. On my QB fuse as it came from the factory, some of the rivets holding the seat ribs to the spar flange were loose due to a slightly over-deep countersink. An extra squeeze with the inverted CS rivet on top easily fixed it.
An other way to do this that is easier to control (in my opinion), if you have access to a whitney hole punch. Make a guess at how deeply you over countersunk. Punch a slug in proper thickness material with the hand punch, at a diameter that is close to the diam. of the rivet head. Use the slug as a spacer on top of the recessed rivet head (you can tape it in place if necessary).

Not that I have ever had to do this my self....
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