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  #1  
Old 06-14-2010, 05:46 PM
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panhandler1956 panhandler1956 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Default Help removing this fitting from my crankcase...

I'm converting an IO-360-A1A from fixed pitch back to constant speed. Among the myriad of issues I have ran into, this latest one has me spooked.
There is a fitting on the nose of the crankcase that is now occupied by a plug, but needs to have a steel 90 degree fitting for the stainless steel oil line that runs from the governor. This plug is very very stuck! I have tried soaking it in liquid wrench, taping on it in various ways, different versions of the 1/4" allen wrench to engage what is left of the teeth and nothing is moving it.
I am considering using a large size easy-out that will engage just the inside the hex slot as I don't want to drill it for fear of getting metal inside my crankcase - any sage advice before I do some real damage?




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  #2  
Old 06-14-2010, 05:53 PM
johnfurey johnfurey is offline
 
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Default Heat

A few years ago I had the same problem on my O-320. An experienced mechanic applied heat with a micro torch arround the plug and it broke loose easily.
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  #3  
Old 06-14-2010, 06:39 PM
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apkp777 apkp777 is offline
 
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Piece of cake. First don't go near it with a torch. Get the "easy out" and the appropriate size drill bit.

However, be very careful and take your time with the easy out. They are fragile and if you break one in the case you're in a heep of doo doo. They work great though and you won't have any troubles. Use the biggest size (maybe 3/16 or 1/4). That plug is soft and will come right out.

Don't drill clear through the plug. You shouldn't have to. Drill just a few hundreths at a time until the easy "grabs". I would use a heavy grease on the bit for any chips to cling to just in case you go through. Use a vaccum while you drill that helps also.
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Last edited by apkp777 : 06-14-2010 at 06:46 PM.
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  #4  
Old 06-14-2010, 07:14 PM
szicree szicree is offline
 
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Default

I've got no experience with Lycomings but I've never had much luck keeping easy outs from snapping. I'd also be worried about drilling into the case and sending chips in there. One thing that's worked well for me is lightly pounding a slightly oversized torx bit into the plug and the using an impact screwdriver (the kind you whack with a hammer). Obviously you don't wanna hit too hard.
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  #5  
Old 06-14-2010, 07:17 PM
T6pilot T6pilot is offline
 
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Location: Cary, North Carolina
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Default Stuck Plug

Recommend you check with your local engine overhaul shop. They deal with this type of problem every day. Conventional wisdom is to heat the area around the plug to expand the crancase, which should allow you to remove the plug.. Good luck..
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  #6  
Old 06-14-2010, 08:11 PM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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I have had a lot better luck with this type of extractor

\

than this type.



You can control the depth with a washer if needed----and thus the amount of bell mouth in the stuck part.

I doubt if penetrating oil will do any good, the plug is more than likely installed with a thread sealer. to prevent leaks.

If you use the top style extractor, gently turn it into the part until it starts to grab, then keep a little torque on it, and tap it in with a hammer so it continues to turn in until the shoulder seats.

Then, put some muscle in it, and tap with a hammer to jar the threads into releasing.

Dont hammer the wrench to turn it, you are hammering the extractor like it is a nail being driven into the case. Gently of course. Or, rivet gun set on low pressure may help.

Good luck
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Last edited by Mike S : 06-14-2010 at 08:20 PM.
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  #7  
Old 06-14-2010, 08:34 PM
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danielhv danielhv is offline
 
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Probably a dumb question so I apologize ahead of time... but couldn't you weld something to the head of the plug? Like an oversized allen wrench or something that fits just inside where the teeth are worn our? Weld it in place, then just unscrew as normal?
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  #8  
Old 06-14-2010, 08:48 PM
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G-force G-force is offline
 
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Heat it up, it will not only soften the sealant on it, but the aluminum case will expand faster than the steel plug. Not smoking hot, but a couple of hundred degrees, your not going to hurt anything, heck, the oil inside is that hot under use. Another trick to try is try a metric allen, some are just a little bigger than the fractional sizes and can take up the extra slop. Buy a cheap one at sears and grind it down untill its a snug fit then tap it in with a hammer.
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  #9  
Old 06-14-2010, 11:01 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Heat applied to the case with a heat gun, and a good quality allen socket in a long breaker bar is the proper process (I would strongly discourage you from doing anything involving drilling other than just the depth of the hex cavity, if you are not intending to disassemble the engine).
Now that the plug is damaged, the tool Mike posted is probably the best choice.
You will still need to apply heat with a heat gun.
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  #10  
Old 06-15-2010, 07:41 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Heat around it with a heat gun or hit it with this stuff and it will help a bunch. This stuff stinks (smells bad) but it sure does loosen parts!!!

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