Which parts is nice to replace during annual other than oil, filter and plugs?

[ao.frog]

Hi.

I'm about to start the annual and came across this link where the TW-bolts had shared:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=58977

Now, I'll change mine for sure since it's 2 years/145 hrs since first flight.

What struck my mind, is which OTHER parts schould I change now?

Does anyone has a list of parts you routinely change during annual or every second year for example?

I'm not thinking about ELT-batteries etc, but parts like those bolts in the tread above; parts which are not mentioned anywhere?

For example; does anyone routinely change the bolts on the brake-flange? (those four bolts which holds the flange which holds the wheel pant)
Those bolts are exposed to vibrations and stress I'd think?

Or what about the bolt holding the tailspring to the tailspring bracket?
(the one that you can reach through the hole in the skin underneath the aft fuse)
That bolt is a single and must be exposed to sideloads and stress?

Or what about the"anti-vibration hoses" (those soft black rubber-hoses) you install on the exhaust hangers? Guess those won't last forever either?

Anyway; I'm hoping that you guys can chime in who have made your own list for which parts to change with regular intervals?

Thanks guys....

[Mike S]

I change any locking device-----safety wire (duh), cotter pin, star washer, or nylock, that has been removed during the inspection.

Any sealing device----oil drain plug gasket, oil screen cover gasket, spark plug gasket ETC.

Dont just check the alt belt, and adjust if needed, -----back off the alt belt and spin the alt by hand, check for any play in the bearings, and re install the belt to the proper tension.

Any screw that is starting to strip out the drive (usually Phillips) slot/s.

Carbon monoxide sensor---you know, the stick on the dash cardboard one.

[turbo]

a baby. not much to change. look it over real good. check everything real close. it is more about how the build is holding up. have someone else look to. keep flying. turbo

[MrNomad]

Originally Posted by Mike S

Dont just check the alt belt, and adjust if needed, -----back off the alt belt and spin the alt by hand, check for any play in the bearings, and re install the belt to the proper tension.

Excellent idea Mike. My Conditional Inspection document gets longer each year as more good ideas surface.

[Mike S]

Thanks Barry, but giving credit where it is due, Steve Barnard taught me this trick.

[Ironflight]

In addition to the suggestions above, definitely have a big box of each kind of screw that you are going to remove - if you strip one out, throw it far, far away and replace it. Much easier to get rid of them when you have lots of replacements handy!

Paul

[PIN 37]

Alternator brushes are also worth replacing often, they are cheap insurance.

[JordanGrant]

Guys,
I'm not a materials engineer, but from what I remember from school, replacing steel bolts (i.e. the ones on the tailwheel mount) doesn't make sense to me.

The only reason to do it would be if the bolts weakened over time, making a a shear failure more likely. I don't think the shear loads on those bolts do much, if anything, to weaken them over time (assuming they are nice and tight). I'm replacing mine with taper pins because they are loose, with the holes in the tailspring being elongated slightly. If your inspection reveals a nice tight connection, I recommend just leaving it alone. If it IS loose, you'll need oversize bolts or taper pins anyway.

[RV7AV8R]

Check the main gear for play and make sure those two bolts to the engine mount are tight. Mine is a tail dragger but tri gear probably have the same round gear and mounting bolt. Mine need tightening each annual and occationally need to be replaced.