Baffling question

N941WR · #1 05-29-2010, 07:19 PM

I'm just about finished with the baffles on my new engine and this question is for those who have done multiple installations, one with the safety wire and another with the new SS rods.

I never had a problem with the safety wire but if there is a compelling reason to use the rods, then I'll install those.

Which is better?

apkp777 · #2 05-30-2010, 05:46 AM

Bill, everyone's quiet on your question. I actually just fabbed one SS rod yesterday and promptly decided to use safety wire instead. I ran out of .041 so I will have to get some more, but my plan is to use a double wrap around a steel hinge pin section then thread the twisted wire through the hole then through a section of vacuum hose then secure with another hinge pin section.

The SS rod sucks and it's hard to get the right tension and still avoid any chafing.

Of course, I have not done this yet so I may change once I get to it.(Tuesday)

carguy614 · #3 05-30-2010, 06:10 AM

Bill,
I'll confuse you a bit.
On my Superior O-320, I opted for a threaded SS rod. I actually used hinge pin, and threaded it 4-40. I was able to bend angles in it to clear the inter cylinder baffles, and it was easy and looks real nice too. I check them every time I have the cowling off, and I have yet to adjust or tighten them.
I have seen quite a few installations with saftey wire, and that appears to work well too, but mine was not a straight shot from end to end, so the rods were a better choice for me.
Hope this helps...
Chris.

PS ....Check your PM's for an Emag question....

N941WR · #4 05-30-2010, 06:42 AM

Tony & Chris,

Thanks for the comments. I might just go with the safety wire because it is less parts to deal with.

On my old baffles, I put a pop-rivet through a small AN washer and then through the hole on the tab. After that I punched the center of the rivet out. This kept the wire from working the baffle. Here's a picture:

apkp777 · #5 05-30-2010, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N941WR

On my old baffles, I put a pop-rivet in the hole on the tab and then punched the center out. This kept the wire from working the baffle.

That's a great idea! I think I'll do the same.

N941WR · #6 05-30-2010, 08:00 AM

PS. Tony, check my post above. I clarified it a little by adding the part about using the pop rivet to hold a small AN washer in place.

rv9av8tr · #7 05-30-2010, 04:34 PM

I had used .041 SS wire on my Long-EZ baffles. Over time, I had problems with the SS wire cutting into the Al baffle holes. On my -9A I went with the SS rods. Yes, it was a PITA, but I think it makes long term maintenance sense.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...g=89570&row=26

apkp777 · #8 05-30-2010, 08:39 PM

I installed the SS rods. It took an hour or so to fab them. I am pretty sure they will be disposable when it comes time to remove them. But they look good right now.

Steve · #9 05-31-2010, 05:43 AM

I used the safety wire for a second time when I replaced my #4 baffle assy (using Vans supplied new design parts) even though I could've used the threaded rod. 'Course then #2 baffle would've needed modification.

Lars · #10 08-08-2010, 05:36 PM

I attempted to make the tie rods today using the material supplied in the kit- the plans show it, how hard can it be? That is some seriously hard stainless steel rod.

The stuff in my kit measured 0.113" diameter, thus way under the nominal 0.136" diameter for a normal #6 thread. Even so, I managed to destroy a brand new, very expensive US-made high speed steel die by the time I had threaded three of the four rods. I even held everything in alignment on my lathe, which I turned by hand, backed up frequently to break the chips, used high quality cutting oil, etc.

Yes, I know there are easier and possibly better ways to do this, but I was being (extremely) stubborn. Thus pushing my completion date out a little bit farther. Again.

Switching to Plan B...