aargh - Quickbuild wing bottom skin fit

[apkp777]

Assuming that Dan's idea is not going to work, (it sounds good, but you already have most of the skin on, it's not going to flex that much I am afraid.) I think you might be able to use the punch idea to get it to line up. Otherwise you have to make a decision to either oversize the holes to a 1097 -4 rivet or just clean them up with a #40 bit.

As always give Van's a call when you have a stumbling block. I find they are very helpful and give wise guidance.

Do NOT drill out the rivets. That will be a disaster.

[edbooth]

For what is worth, I have found (after four RV projects) that standing the wing leading edge down in a wing cradle,clecoing on that last large skin for alignment, and then start riviting at the rib outboard of the double row seems easier for me. Have never had alignment problems. Also able to rivit the whole thing solo with no nasty pull rivits. And I have short arms.

Ed Booth, Trenton, SC (6, 7, 9A, 10)

[DanH]

Originally Posted by apkp777

Assuming that Dan's idea is not going to work, (it sounds good, but you already have most of the skin on, it's not going to flex that much I am afraid.)

The problem is a slight deformation of the bend forming the short vertical rib flange. The skin is indeed riveted along the rear spar and up the ribs before you get to this point.

BTW....it's how I did my own QB wings.

[truflite]

I have the same problem. What I did worked great. Yes, there is some "sag". Yes, it can be removed.

I lifted the skin slightly and put in clecos in every hole. The clecos will go in on an angle and stay that way until released. I then took a length of 2 x 4 and put it up against the clecos. I then pushed gently. I heard all the clecos snap to full expansion and they stayed upright. I took out one cleco at a time and riveted the skin leading edge with no problems and no gap. There is a lot of pull in 40 -50 clecos. About to do it again on my second wing.

Dave Nellis

[Charles in SC]

I had trouble with one of my skins but was able to address it before riveting. I aimed a small heater at the offending skin for a few minuets and it fit fine. Maybe you could put it outside in the sun bottom side up for awhile and see if it makes a difference. It is amazing how sheet metal grows in the sun.
Good luck!

[eatenbyagrue]

Well, after changing the way the wing is supported, letting it rest overnight and and squishing it a little, I've got a row of cleco's in every other hole along the spar! But, it's so very close, in about half the holes, a cleco will fit, but a rivet will not (I checked, rivets are ever so slightly thicker.)

At this point I think I'm good to run a bit through the holes - they are so close that any enlargement will be minor and easily filled by rivet expansion.

I still have a note out to Van's, I'll update them as well and see what they think.

[Lionclaw]

Was the bottom skin ever match drilled? On my SB wings, I had to match drill the skin to the wing with a #40 reamer before a rivet would fit through any of the holes. They are stamped undersize from the factory and require enlargement. I've never seen a QB wing, so I have no idea if this is a required step for you guys.

[eatenbyagrue]

Yep - match drilled and dimpled... just barely out of alignment

[DanH]

Squish it a little harder and check again....they'll go. I'm about 220 and draped myself across the leading edge wrap while a lighter buddy pushed down on the rear spar. Just make sure the sawhorses are aligned under two ribs.

[snoopyflys]

I am about to rivet the bottom skins of my SB right wing. With the skins clecoed to the ribs and spars, the gap between the LE, FT and skins is about 3/64ths while on the table. In the cradle, the gap closes up to about 1/64th. But, even though the clecoes go into the skin to main spar holes, the rivets don't quite go in. So, I hope that by riveting the skins on will pull the skin tighter than the clecoes. If not, then I will use Dan's suggestion. Gravity seems to be at work here.

Regards,