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  #11  
Old 05-11-2011, 10:14 PM
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rene@felker.com rene@felker.com is offline
 
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I did the same as Geoff, works great.......shimmed my rails two weeks ago and now my seats "glide" back and forth. I also added nutplates to the handles to make them easier to remove and install......you never stop building.
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  #12  
Old 05-02-2015, 11:37 AM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
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Just finally getting round to fitting the front seats.

Can someone please just confirm exactly what needs to be done to avoid having to remove the flap tube cover? I gather that the top UMHW insert at the front of the seat needs to be angled. This would allow the back of the seat to clear the flap cover as it is inserted on to the rails. Is that right?

Putting the seats in - must be getting close!
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Mercy Air, White River FAWV
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  #13  
Old 05-02-2015, 11:50 AM
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You can remove them and just cut about 3/4-1" off the front of them and it will clear the flap tube covers.
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  #14  
Old 05-02-2015, 12:28 PM
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I think trimming the aft end of the tracks at a 45 deg angle resolves the problem (it effectively moves the track portion fwd about 3/4 inch).
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  #15  
Old 05-02-2015, 01:14 PM
woxofswa woxofswa is offline
 
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Location: Mesa Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerosport1 View Post
All you need to do is remove the UMHW plastic tracks that go around the
aluminum seat rails and cut the fronts back about 3/8". That allows enough
to remove seats without cutting up the aluminum rails and taking the rear foot/flap kick plates out. It takes about 5 minutes per seat. There is no need to cut the rails.

Geoff
I did exactly that. Works great. Much easier and cleaner than shaving the rails IMO.

The other half of the seat mod is to attach nutplates on the bottom of the plate where the rear slide stop attaches. A little more work initially, but well worth it. To remove the seats post mod, instead of having to remove the four bolts of the T latch (which face the sidewall), you simply remove the two bolts of the rear stop that are upright and easy to access with a socket extension. With these two mods, removing the seats is a two minute job each. Remove the two rear stop bolts, pull the T handle, and the seat slides right out clean. Both mods are no brainers and should be incorporated into the Van's manual. They have both been discussed on the forums extensively in the past with details and pictures.

In my humble opinion, these seat mods, the Matco nosewheel/axle, and the Planearound door mod are the singular three most important/useful mods of any RV10 project. Friends don't let friends build without them. Van's has a terrific design, but all three of these items SHOULD BE DIRECTLY INCORPORATED INTO THE FACTORY PLANS. The icing on the cake, however, would have to be Geoff's overhead console.
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Last edited by woxofswa : 05-02-2015 at 01:29 PM.
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  #16  
Old 05-02-2015, 01:47 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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So how often are you guys pulling the front seats out that make having the seat mod (s) worthwhile?
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  #17  
Old 05-02-2015, 01:58 PM
woxofswa woxofswa is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auburntsts View Post
So how often are you guys pulling the front seats out that make having the seat mod (s) worthwhile?
Several times during the build. I put the seats in with just the plastic over them to have a place to sit during panel build/install. Pulled them out to install the Abbey covers and the seat heaters. Once for the paint shop. Once for a quick 10 hour inspection during phase one. Once for a 50 hour inspection after phase one prior to OSH trip. Once to remove/bypass a leaking parking brake valve. Once again a few weeks later to replace repaired valve. Once during first condition inspection.

That's the first year. Hopefully less going forward.

Edited note: I forgot the most important one. Once to do the seat mods!
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  #18  
Old 05-02-2015, 02:04 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Ok you pulled yours way more than me. While I see absolutely nothing wrong with modifying the seat rails, I don't see it anywhere near as critical as the door or axle mods. IOW, IMO you can easily live without doing this. YMMV......
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  #19  
Old 05-02-2015, 03:40 PM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
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I'm getting lots of opinions but it's really hard to tie you guys down to a definitive!!

So, top of the guides attached to the seat - remove some of the plastic and you get enough flex space to get the seats in - is that it?
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  #20  
Old 05-02-2015, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul330 View Post
I'm getting lots of opinions but it's really hard to tie you guys down to a definitive!!

So, top of the guides attached to the seat - remove some of the plastic and you get enough flex space to get the seats in - is that it?
That is one way that absolutely works. Other ways can work too, but that way does work, and the mod takes about 15 minutes.
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