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05-06-2010, 07:55 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 313
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Fuel Valve
Did a forum search, but didn't quite find an answer. I took my older style Van's fuel selector apart yesterday to clean and lube. Got the washers and spring out...but does the whole shaft assembly come out? Mine seemed like it would not , and I was scared to put too much pressure on it to remove. Cleaned what I could and lubed and it's working fine now. Just want to know for future reference.
Don't want to go to Andair valve.
__________________
Jim Brown
RV6, Christen Eagle II(Sold)
ATP, CFII, A-IGI, A&P/IA
Carrollton, GA
Lyon?s Landing
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05-06-2010, 08:18 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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It will come out but it is also very easy to break the plastic above the little pin that goes thru the plastic drum and the shaft.
There is kind of a suction or something that holds that thing down in there and makes it hard to pull out.
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05-06-2010, 08:27 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Newnan, GA
Posts: 315
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Is there a replaceable o-ring in the valve?
__________________
Brian Kilby
flying RV-6A, previously flying RV-9A
based at KCTJ, Carrollton, GA
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05-06-2010, 08:37 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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There are o rings on the top screw in cap that the shaft sticks out of if I am remembering correctly.
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05-06-2010, 08:43 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 827
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Just replace it!!
For 48 bucks just replace it with new instead of screwing around with trouble..........
__________________
Long-EZ built 1985 -> Sold 2007
RV-9A; N539RV First Flight: 7/2010
RV-8A N468DL 40 hr Flight Test Program
Building Log: www.mykitlog.com/n539rv
APRS Tracking: aprs.fi/n539rv
2017 Paid
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05-06-2010, 09:32 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv9av8tr
For 48 bucks just replace it with new instead of screwing around with trouble..........
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I have a replacement valve...but that wasn't the question, now was it? Thanks to everyone else for useful comments.
__________________
Jim Brown
RV6, Christen Eagle II(Sold)
ATP, CFII, A-IGI, A&P/IA
Carrollton, GA
Lyon?s Landing
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05-06-2010, 09:49 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: KSLC
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbrwn
I have a replacement valve...but that wasn't the question, now was it? Thanks to everyone else for useful comments.
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True................but on the other hand, it wasn't bad advice. I always like options,.... even if I didn't think of them. Was ready to sell you one cheap, until you mentioned you had a spare.
L.Adamson --- RV6A
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05-06-2010, 10:17 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Newnan, GA
Posts: 315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbrwn
I have a replacement valve...but that wasn't the question, now was it? Thanks to everyone else for useful comments.
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I think he was responding to my question if there is a replaceable o-ring in the valve..
__________________
Brian Kilby
flying RV-6A, previously flying RV-9A
based at KCTJ, Carrollton, GA
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05-06-2010, 10:39 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbrwn
I have a replacement valve...but that wasn't the question, now was it? Thanks to everyone else for useful comments.
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Geezzz.... just trying help.... no need to be rude...........
__________________
Long-EZ built 1985 -> Sold 2007
RV-9A; N539RV First Flight: 7/2010
RV-8A N468DL 40 hr Flight Test Program
Building Log: www.mykitlog.com/n539rv
APRS Tracking: aprs.fi/n539rv
2017 Paid
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05-06-2010, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbrwn
Did a forum search, but didn't quite find an answer. I took my older style Van's fuel selector apart yesterday to clean and lube. Got the washers and spring out...but does the whole shaft assembly come out? Mine seemed like it would not , and I was scared to put too much pressure on it to remove. Cleaned what I could and lubed and it's working fine now. Just want to know for future reference.
Don't want to go to Andair valve.
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Jim, To disassemble the valve, first back off the screw to release the handle then with a 3/4" wrench unscrew the cap till it clears the threads. Now with the handle still on the shaft but loose, pull on the handle till the assy lifts out. Now, remove the screw, the handle and the cap.
The cap has two "O" rings. One to seal the cap, and one on the shaft. Hardware store or auto parts items. Next is a washer and the spring and then the detente washer. The shaft will stay pinned to the nylon drum. AS you can see, this can be done with the valve in the A/C with the fuel tanks drained. In fact, you could install a new assembly from a new valve and just use the body of the old valve that is still plumbed into the fuel system. With the tanks drained, you could replace this in minutes....... Try that with an ANDAIR.
Do not lubricate the nylon drum. If you want the valve to work with less turning effort, remove the spring and cut one (1) loop off of the spring and bend the cut end back perpendicular to the spring.
Now the valve will work nice and smooth. When you go to assemble the valve, just line up the tab on the detente washer with the slot in the body...... that's it!!
This is a simple well built low priced valve. Once you see it apart, you might have more faith in this valve. I am sure ANDAIR is a quality valve, but there is nothing wrong with this valve that has far fewer parts and is under $50 and can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Cut the spring, you will like the way it works...........
PS..... If you purchase the nice red after market handle for this valve, be sure to use locktight on the set screw that seats into the flat area of the shaft. And then check it often. If the screw backs off, you will not be able to switch tanks!!!! The stock handle will work even if the screw is missing.
Last edited by gasman : 05-06-2010 at 11:21 AM.
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