This alternator NEVER had a "S" terminal ( the one horz in the middle). It always has been a "D" or dummy terminal. This has never changed. Many ND alternators do have a "S" wire but not this model.
The other two are the IGN and "L" charge Light connection. They have not changed either.
Van never suggested using the "L" connection, even though it was there and still is there. Not connecting the "L" lead will not hurt anything but its still there.
The fact that they are NEW is no big deal. It is still made to the same specs and must be a direct replacement to original factory or rebuilds. May be Van made a mistake in the past wire diagram but this alternator should not be differnt than the rebuilt units they sold before if they have the same part number, which I think they do?
I do not know of any ND regulator without the "L" connection, except the "self exciting" SE regulator for the "specialty race car" alternators. They are all "D" or dummy connections. The only connection on the SE or RACE alternator is just the single large b-lead wire. These single wire "self exciting" alternators are not really suited for aircraft use.
I called Van's a few months ago (Tom Green) and told them of how to get NEW alternators for less than the price of the rebuilds they where buying. I guess they did it or the distributor just switched. Its actually cheaper to buy a new aftermarket alternator than take a dirty worn out alternator, take it apart, clean, inspect and replace, assemble all the parts and test. The rebuild industry is going to new aftermarket since the cores are getting older and hard to get.
NEW does not mean NEW Nippon Denso BTW. Its new alternators made 100% from aftermarket parts, not OEM parts. This is no big deal since most old rebuilds have been made up of aftermarket parts anyway, where the only original parts might be the case or rear cover.
Bottom line is I think you should use the "L" lead which is still there IMHO. You can leave it un-connected as Van says, but I think you should avail yourself to it.
I have a catalog of every ND aftermarket regulator made and they all have a IGN and L lead at min (except for the SE ones I mention). Unless they have a special regulator just for them or they switched away from the 86-95 Suzuki Samurai alternator (lester# 14684) they always sold, the new version has to be compatible with previous rebuilds. These alternators are not made just for us. These are car alternators made for cars, which use an ALT "L" light in all cases. Not all have a remote volt sense or "S" connection, but many do.
The "L" light gives you the status of the alternator like charging and internal soft faults. To wire it see the thumb nail below. The IGN lead only drains a few milliamps and needs only a small CB. The "L" light should also use little current, especially if you use a LED. If you use a LED for the ALT light, you need to add a resistor across the LED to drain some current other wise the LED may dimly glow all the time. There is a drive transistor for the warning light and the leak thru the transistor can make a LED glow dimly.
George
READ! 60 amp Alternator Wiring Change (from Van's)
Linear Mode
