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04-29-2010, 08:01 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hobe Sound, Florida
Posts: 291
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Constant Speed / Fixed Pitch
I purchased a YO-360-A1A engine and was told that I should get it manufactured with as a constant speed capable engine although we will keep it as a fixed pitch prop on our 7A. I spoke with Lycoming and they highly recommended that I remove and cap the line from the back of the case to the front and to punch a hole in the aft "cap". I am concerned that I will do damage. Any one else have information on this issue ?
Thanks in advance
Kevin 
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04-29-2010, 09:14 AM
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been here awhile
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s24789
I purchased a YO-360-A1A engine and was told that I should get it manufactured with as a constant speed capable engine although we will keep it as a fixed pitch prop on our 7A. I spoke with Lycoming and they highly recommended that I remove and cap the line from the back of the case to the front and to punch a hole in the aft "cap". I am concerned that I will do damage. Any one else have information on this issue ?
Thanks in advance
Kevin 
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Kevin, this is a very easy procedure for someone familiar with Lycomings. Just have the engine built constant speed capable but ready for fixed pitch and you will be good to go. However, if the engine is delivered to you CS-ready, an A&P can quickly mod the aft crank plug for you.
Be sure you receive and save the governor line for later use. It is high-$$$$$$!
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04-29-2010, 09:39 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena CA
Posts: 2,484
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Assuming the line is stainless, not the older aluminum one. Make sure you get someone familiar enough with Lycs to work on it. Half the A&P's I know wouldn't know where to start.
__________________
Stephen Samuelian, CFII, A&P IA, CTO
RV4 wing in Jig @ KPOC
RV7 emp built
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04-29-2010, 11:12 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hobe Sound, Florida
Posts: 291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan
Kevin, this is a very easy procedure for someone familiar with Lycomings. Just have the engine built constant speed capable but ready for fixed pitch and you will be good to go. However, if the engine is delivered to you CS-ready, an A&P can quickly mod the aft crank plug for you.
Be sure you receive and save the governor line for later use. It is high-$$$$$$!
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Thanks Sam. Aside from the obvious, "I can get a leak in the line", am I damaging or doing something stupid by leaving it as is ??
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04-29-2010, 04:53 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bennington, Vermont USA
Posts: 1,301
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Link to earlier thread
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=42685
The significance of puncturing or removing the rear plug for a FP installation is to allow oil pressure on the front bearing to easily vent to the crank case and prevent the possibility of "blowing" the front plug and losing oil. This oil pressure is otherwise used to actuate the CS via the prop governor.
Installations with a CS oil line in place and a governor blanking plate with a bypass channel will allow oil pressure from the front bearing to vent to the crank case via the oil line.
However Lycoming still recommend removing or puncturing the rear plug to enable better oil flow and circulation thus preventing the build up of sludge and moisture and therefore crank corrosion.
Jim Sharkey
RV-6
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05-01-2010, 12:13 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hobe Sound, Florida
Posts: 291
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Thanks Jim we have decided to remove the line and cap the holes, remove the front and rear plugs and and put a new front plug in. Is there anything I need to do on the governor pad at the back of the engine ?
phelps  
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05-01-2010, 12:33 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stuart, FL /Hartford, CT/Virgin Gorda,BVI
Posts: 3,122
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kevin,nice......
seeing at your hanger today. we need a few more rvs at sua. you guys can come up with me any time to get some time. ill be in ct for most of the summer though. turbo 
__________________
TURBO YES =VAF= Payed Jan2019
Ed D'Arcy
RV6-A 5,200+ hrs, R-44 1,600 hrs, Helicycle 320 hrs, gyro sold,35,000 miles flown in 2015 
Stuart, Fl / S WINDSOR,Ct / Virgin Gorda, BVI - under major repair from hurricane damage
VAF #840 EAA AOPA FAC FABA QB SPA
addicted pickle ball player
https://i.postimg.cc/tn3h4svg/IMG-3101.jpg
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05-01-2010, 04:19 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bennington, Vermont USA
Posts: 1,301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s24789
Thanks Jim we have decided to remove the line and cap the holes, remove the front and rear plugs and and put a new front plug in. Is there anything I need to do on the governor pad at the back of the engine ?
phelps  
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Plugging the lines and leaving the governor pad blanking plate in place should be fine but there is no reason why you shouldn't leave the line too, other than to save weight. Either way you should pierce or remove the rear plug.
Jim Sharkey
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