RV-6 Instrument Panel Change Out

RFazio · #1 04-19-2010, 05:09 PM

I want to pull the panel out of my 6 slider. I'm going with dynon's skyview and a new radio and transponder. My idea is to make the new one screw in and out like the 7. Mine is rivited in. Has anyone installed their panel in a 6 with screws instead of riviting it in? More importantly can I get it out once I remove the rivits? The slider has the roll bar up front and it looks like it might just clear by pulling one side out first. I'm thinking I won't need to replace every rivit with a screw and nut plate, maybe every other one. This way I'll get the thing all setup before I rip apart the plane. I know there is a lot of wiring and plumbing to take care of but that I look forward to.

Kyle Boatright · #2 04-19-2010, 05:19 PM

The panel in my -6 installs with screws. I think that's what the plans called out. It shouldn't be daunting to convert your airplane to "stock" configuration, making the panel easier (not easy) to remove.

L.Adamson · #3 04-19-2010, 05:49 PM

This is my 6A panel, with three sections screwed on to a riveted base frame, that was made from the original panel, and cut out like a skeleton. A 2" angled switch panel was added and nutplated to the bottom. The center (throttle section) is the same 8 degree angle as the main panel.

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/2816/dsc00153ared.jpg

L.Adamson --- RV6A

RFazio · #4 04-19-2010, 05:50 PM

I just checked the plans and it shows 44 or so rivits holding in the panel and that's what we did. How many screws do you have in yours kyle?

Kyle Boatright · #5 04-19-2010, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RFazio

I just checked the plans and it shows 44 or so rivits holding in the panel and that's what we did. How many screws do you have in yours kyle?

I'd estimate that the screws are spaced every 2.5". The screws go through the panel into a piece of ~1" x 1" angle that I relieved and formed into shape. The angle is riveted onto the glareshield.

Rick6a · #6 04-20-2010, 05:55 AM

Intrigued by your RV-6 slider question, I referred to my copy of DWG 24 dated 8-24-00 and it shows the standard size instrument panel attached with a total of 19 #8 screws and nutplates. The DWG, included with my 2000 vintage RV-6A kit is labeled RV7,9. In my case, I attached an optional oversize instrument panel (it adds an additional 2.2 inches of height compared to the stock instrument panel) with a total of 11 screws and nutplates. The homegrown cable subassembly is modular in design and I secured it to the lip below the main panel using 3 screws and nutplates. It can be unscrewed and dropped out of the way for servicing if need be. After 5 years of operational service, the instrument panel still seems to be secured just fine given the comparatively heavy gyros that were purchased and installed prior to the availability of Dynon and other glass panel packages.

Sam Buchanan · #7 04-20-2010, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by L.Adamson

This is my 6A panel, with three sections screwed on to a riveted base frame, that was made from the original panel, and cut out like a skeleton. A 2" angled switch panel was added and nutplated to the bottom. The center (throttle section) is the same 8 degree angle as the main panel.

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/2816/dsc00153ared.jpg

L.Adamson --- RV6A

This is an excellent path to take. I've reworked the driver's side of the panel in my RV-6 tipper several times and it is now easy to do since I modified the original panel into a "modular" panel. If you look at this photo, you can see the modular section. Changing flight instruments now only involves recutting a 12" x 12" sheet of panel stock.

As Lee suggested, leave the original panel in place but cut away all of it except a supporting skeleton. Add platenuts to the remaining framework so you can overlay a new panel on top of the old panel skeleton. If you divide the new panel into two or three sections, you can easily change equipment later without having to rework the entire panel.

Snowflake · #8 04-20-2010, 11:26 AM

Is the panel in a -6 tip-up structural? I've looked at mine a few times now, and it looks to me like the only things holding it on are screws into the vertical supports that are about 1/4 and 3/4 of the way across the panel (two in each), and one at each end that screws into a bracket behind the panel. You can see my panel in this photo.

az_gila · #9 04-20-2010, 12:10 PM

...a modular panel, you can just cut out the center of your existing panel and make alum. overlay sections. Just countersink your original mounting screws.

You will loose about 5/8 inch around the periphery, but with a new EFIS there should still be enough real estate.

This picture shows my panel fitting - the overlays are cheap acrylic from HD, enabling the depth and instrument clearances behind the panel to be seen.

Clickable thumbnail

A true "glass panel"...

Sam Buchanan · #10 04-20-2010, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snowflake

Is the panel in a -6 tip-up structural? I've looked at mine a few times now, and it looks to me like the only things holding it on are screws into the vertical supports that are about 1/4 and 3/4 of the way across the panel (two in each), and one at each end that screws into a bracket behind the panel. You can see my panel in this photo.

Tip up panel is not structural, modify as you wish, just make sure the canopy bow will clear.