Adding an autopilot to a flying RV-6

[cbennet1]

OK, so I got a lot of good feedback re: my question on the "necessity" of an A/P for light IMC/cross country. http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=56701

So now the next question, what are the installation options for a 2 axis A/P on a flying airplane? My assumption is that it is major surgery. A search on this forum yielded inconclusive results. [due to my inept search skills, no doubt :-) ]

Thanks!

[N131RV]

Originally Posted by cbennet1

OK, so I got a lot of good feedback re: my question on the "necessity" of an A/P for light IMC/cross country. http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=56701

So now the next question, what are the installation options for a 2 axis A/P on a flying airplane? My assumption is that it is major surgery. A search on this forum yielded inconclusive results. [due to my inept search skills, no doubt :-) ]

Thanks!

There are two major vendors and a few minor ones for experimental autopilots.

Trio, TruTrak are the two majors. Dynon, MGL and other EFIS vendors also have autopilot implementations.

I can only talk about Trio from experience.

It's not "major" surgery to add an autopilot to an existing RV, IMHO

I first installed a Navaid for horizontal nav, then later added the pitch servo (Trio Gold) hooked to my MGL Odyssey. I later replaced the Navaid with a Trio Pro Pilot and hooked the pitch servo to the Pro Pilot.

I mounted my roll servo on the right wingtip rib with a suitable reinforcement structure and used a fairly long push rod to reach the bell crank. Total install time including wiring was about four hours. When it came time to replace the Navaid servo, Trio shipped me one that was a drop in replacement.

The pitch servo took a bit longer, only because of the cramped quarters you have to work in. Installing the mount and servo took about 8 hours (a full day), which included pulling the cables and troubleshooting, etc.

So, You could probably do the entire install in a weekend with time to spare.

YMMV.

[cbennet1]

Not having built an RV (YET!), I'm particularly curious about the wiring from wing servo to panel. How did you accomplish this?

Originally Posted by N131RV

There are two major vendors and a few minor ones for experimental autopilots.

Trio, TruTrak are the two majors. Dynon, MGL and other EFIS vendors also have autopilot implementations.

I can only talk about Trio from experience.

It's not "major" surgery to add an autopilot to an existing RV, IMHO

I first installed a Navaid for horizontal nav, then later added the pitch servo (Trio Gold) hooked to my MGL Odyssey. I later replaced the Navaid with a Trio Pro Pilot and hooked the pitch servo to the Pro Pilot.

I mounted my roll servo on the right wingtip rib with a suitable reinforcement structure and used a fairly long push rod to reach the bell crank. Total install time including wiring was about four hours. When it came time to replace the Navaid servo, Trio shipped me one that was a drop in replacement.

The pitch servo took a bit longer, only because of the cramped quarters you have to work in. Installing the mount and servo took about 8 hours (a full day), which included pulling the cables and troubleshooting, etc.

So, You could probably do the entire install in a weekend with time to spare.

YMMV.

[WingsOnWheels]

The RV-6 puts the roll servo under the seat, so a retrofit isn't as bad as the 7. Shouldn't be too hard, just some fun crawling around in the back to install the pitch servo.

[Ironflight]

Definitely not major surgery Craig , and Joe's description is pretty good. If you're going to add both pitch and roll, do it at the same time. For the Tru Trak stuff, (common mounting with several others) pull out the seats and seat pans, and the rear baggage bulkhead. Replace the pitch bellcrank mounts - this requires some drilling riveting/bolting. Roll servo can go under th pilot's seat - a little tight, but not hard. Then run a cable from each up to the panel. Depending on how accessible your panel is, wiring and mounting th head can be a pain, or a breeze.

if you have worked on planes like these, it is an easy weekend task. if you are new to the techniques and practices, maybe a couple of weeks. The biggest time-sink is discovering other stuff you want to do along the way. "gee, I really should clean up and paint the floor panels". Or "Hmm - a couple of stripped nut-plates, maybe I should fix them". Or the biggest "Boy, this wiring behind the panel sure is a mess, maybe I should clean it up...."

Paul

[Sam Buchanan]

Originally Posted by WingsOnWheels

The RV-6 puts the roll servo under the seat, so a retrofit isn't as bad as the 7. Shouldn't be too hard, just some fun crawling around in the back to install the pitch servo.

Putting the roll servo at the wingtip as Joe suggested avoids some issues that can arise with having the servo connect to the control column. Here are some notes and photos:

http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html

Enjoy your new autopilot!

[cbennet1]

How about running the wires from the wingtip to the fuse?

Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan

Putting the roll servo at the wingtip as Joe suggested avoids some issues that can arise with having the servo connect to the control column. Here are some notes and photos:

http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html

Enjoy your new autopilot!

[Bob Axsom]

Installed mine after flying for a year and painting - no problem. RV-6A Tru Trak Pictorial Pilot and Altrac altitude hold.

Bob Axsom

[L.Adamson]

Originally Posted by cbennet1

How about running the wires from the wingtip to the fuse?

In the case of my "6", I had Van's flexible conduit running from the tip back to the fuselage. My servo was also added later, and tip mounted on the last rib. Trio was installed for roll, and TruTrack for pitch. Just wanted to support both companies I guess. Both were installed after airframe was complete.

In the case of the "6" wing, there are lightning holes in each rib. Wiring was either a small diameter 3 or 5 wire, all in one. I just don't remember which. If pulled through an existing lightning hole, the wires would need protection. You could use Van's flexible conduit, or some available from auto part stores.
Various ribs can be reached from the one access panel in the 6, as well through the tip to secure the conduit with wire ties.

A new hole could be drilled from the fuse to the wing root structure, or you could bring the conduit through the large lightning hole in which the aileron push rod runs through. Just secure everything well, when in operating push rod areas.

And speaking of push rods....... since I have a long pushrod from the tip servo to the aileron bellcrank, I have a piece of plexiglass screwed to the next to the last outboard rib with a slot for the push rod to go through. This will hold the pushrod if any connection was to seperate...... which will prevent the pushrod from jamming against a rib. It's plexi, so that I can see through the rib for inspections.

L.Adamson --- RV6A

[CNEJR]

Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan

Putting the roll servo at the wingtip as Joe suggested avoids some issues that can arise with having the servo connect to the control column. Here are some notes and photos:

http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html

Enjoy your new autopilot!

I intially mounted my TT roll servo under the seat as they show, but moved it out to the last rib bay of the left wing. It was very easy to mount. I was told by my building mentor that the way it connects to the controls under the seat, that there would always be a little pitch seeking, when the roll servo would make an adjustment as it was pushing at a slight angle. Works great in the tip, who knows?