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  #1  
Old 04-03-2010, 10:35 AM
resrob66 resrob66 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 30
Default Skin Rivet Hole Deburring Question.....

Hello Guys, I'm a new RV8 empennage builder. So far I'm done with the horizontal and vertical stabs. Which despite this post's question came out quite nice.

My question is about deburring rivet holes. It seems that on about 50% of my deburred holes, the deburring bit leaves a burr just as bad or worse than the drill bit did when I drilled them to size. I'm using a single hole deburr bit, it's new, the correct size, not worn out, in an electric drill. I usually do 1-2 turns with light pressure, anymore and it starts to countersink as you would expect.

Looking for advice or recommendations on what you've found to be the best to deburr the holes in the skin. I don't plan on priming the skins on the inside, so I'm trying to stay away from scuffing them up too much with scotchbrite. Although I've found that the small scotchbrite wheel in the die-grinder works wonders on deburring holes in the structure that I am priming. I'm working on the rudder now and finally decided to ask the question here. I realize also that I may be bordering on being too critical of my own work!!

Thanks!!
Robert
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  #2  
Old 04-03-2010, 10:48 AM
schristo@mac.com's Avatar
schristo@mac.com schristo@mac.com is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 988
Default use more pressure

too light of pressure and the burr remains as the hole gets bigger.
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  #3  
Old 04-03-2010, 06:06 PM
frazitl's Avatar
frazitl frazitl is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 488
Default I've had better luck

deburring by hand. The one hole bit is best in my opinion. With your fingers, you can get a better feel for the proper amount of cutting without putting much of a chamfer on the hole. I used a one hole deburring bit from Cleaveland Tool that had a ~3" long hex shank on it. See http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/p...sp?number=DB04 .

If you want to reduce the amount of remaining burr in the first place, consider match "drilling" the holes with a chucking reamer rather than a drill bit. I had best results with a #41 for -3 holes that would be dimpled, and a #40 for non-dimpled holes. I used a 1/8" reamer for dimpled -4 holes and #30 for those that won't be dimpled. The smaller reamers resulted in a better fit for the rivet after dimpling. Dimpling will expand the hole somewhat.

YMMV!
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  #4  
Old 04-03-2010, 08:46 PM
Phil's Avatar
Phil Phil is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
Default

I spin one of these in my fingers and I like the way it finishes the edge of the holes.

http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,5501.html

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  #5  
Old 04-03-2010, 10:48 PM
Greg Arehart's Avatar
Greg Arehart Greg Arehart is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
Default

Small C/S bit (hex shank) in one of the small electric screwdrivers works well.

greg
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  #6  
Old 04-04-2010, 09:33 AM
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SMO SMO is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Salmon Arm, BC
Posts: 933
Default I use this one

http://www.averytools.com/p-73-speed...ring-tool.aspx

This is probably the most well used tool in my shop. Quick and easy, good control, use it for deburring as well as countersinking for 1097 rivets (about 8 turns), the end threads off for use in restricted areas.
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  #7  
Old 04-04-2010, 12:15 PM
resrob66 resrob66 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 30
Default Thanks for all the ideas!

I'll give a different tool a try and also vary my technique.

Thanks to all who contribute and share their experience with us newbies!!

Robert
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  #8  
Old 04-04-2010, 10:13 PM
SHIPCHIEF SHIPCHIEF is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,412
Default

+1 for SMO.
I use that crank thing too. Sometimes I just use fingers on the bit like Phil also. I found (for myself) the power driven screwdriver was too clunky and the drill was too fast & insensitive.
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