Rivet Discoloration/ Scratching

Flyguytki · #1 03-31-2010, 06:09 AM

It has been a few months since the last time I used my Flush head set in the rivet gun and there was a small amount of rust on the face. Being in florida this is nothing new. I used a scotchbrite pad to clean it up back to a shine began riveting at about 80 psi. In the picture you can see how it turned the heads of the rivets black and then put some discoloration around the rivet. Any idea on why this would be?? The face of the Flush head set looked just like it did brand new so I dont see why there would be a difference.

647jc · #2 03-31-2010, 07:54 AM

I don't think taking a scotch bright pad to the surface of your flush rivet set is a good idea. That surface should be polished and I would think a scotch bright pad could actually scratch it althogh the set should be pretty hard steel. 80 lbs pressure to set a 3/32 flush rivet also seems way high to me, I typically used about 40 lbs and a 2X gun.

Auburntsts · #3 03-31-2010, 08:14 AM

Agree with Joe, 80 psi is more than twice the pressure required to set a 3-3 to 3-4 rivet. I use 35-40lbs with my 3X gun.

Lycosaurus · #4 03-31-2010, 08:41 AM

If you need to polish your rivet set, use something like Brasso and some elbow grease. Should get rid of the surface rust pretty quick.

It may take a little longer now that you used scotchbrite on it. Try using some 400 sand paper, and then some higher number paper like 600 or 800 grit. Finally use the brasso to get a mirror-like finish. It'll be like new again.

larrynew · #5 03-31-2010, 08:42 AM

I had a similar problem with 2 of my flush rivet sets being rough. I just chucked them in my drill press, put a folded up a rag on the table for a soft cushion and then held sandpaper on the rag as I lowered the sets. I went from 220 to 1000 wet/dry and then used rubbing (red) and polishing (white) compound. Definitely no problems with scuffing now as they are mirror smooth. Took less than 10 minutes each.

Phil · #6 03-31-2010, 09:08 AM

In Houston, ours rust up in under 1 day too.

I typically knock off the rust with scotchbrite and then go about my business riveting.

I'm working on a couple of alternative methods to try and keep the rusting process down. First I'm starting to use Boeshield. I have only been using it for a week on a few bucking bars, so I don't have any real results to present yet.

Next I'm saving all the silica packs from the electronic items I purchase. Those are going in the drawers with the bucking bars.

I hadn't thought of using a polish on the rivet sets, but that's a good idea. I might try an polish mine a bit too.

Usually, I'm covering the rivet head with blue painters tape and shooting against the tape. I've always felt better because it keeps the corroded surface of the rivet set away from the aluminum. I also helps remove any imperfections that exist on the face of the rivet set.

Phil

bruceh · #7 03-31-2010, 11:18 AM

I have been putting a small square of clear packing tape over the rivets when I set them.
Keeps the little rivets from falling out and no marks on the skin or rivet.

Kintnersville_Mike · #8 03-31-2010, 12:07 PM

For all those that are experiencing rust on their tools. May I suggest a method that I use on my Table Saw to eliminate the flash rust on the surface. I take "Butchers Bowling Alley Wax" and rub a light coat on the surface. This works very well and can easilly be cleaned with light solvents if required. The wax can be purchased in almost any hardware store.