Interior Painting - Page 2

RV_7A · #11 02-15-2005, 08:27 PM

Thanks! There are quite a few pics on my site under FUSELAGE that show the interior. I wanted something that was low glare. Most of the planes I have been in had the lighter grey and I could see reflection of the inside of the plane just about everywhere on the canopy. I am building a tip-up mainly for the visibilty factor. Besides a little sweat never hurt anyone.
Climb till its cool!

tonyjohnson · #12 02-15-2005, 10:13 PM

I am almost at the point of painting my interior, which is primed with dupont vari-prime. I am considering what paint to use. Imron seems a likely choice, since it is a dupont product, and I understand it to be very durable. I also have heard that it sometimes chips.

I would appreciate the feedback from those of you who have information that might help in my decision.

Tony Johnson
RV8A Orlando

N916K · #13 02-16-2005, 06:38 AM

Imron can bit a bit of a problem to repair. Try PPG Concept. I've been using it for a while and it's incredibly strong. I've dropped so many tools on the painted floor of my plane and not even a small chip. Also it's much easier to buff out and repair than Imron. Imron seems to be more of a one shot deal, great if you get it right but a pain if you don't. I've never had great luck with it.

They are both very toxic. Most good paints are so invest in a good resperator or better yet get a forced air resperator if you really want to be safe.

RV_7A · #14 02-16-2005, 07:31 AM

Most modern Urethane,Polyester and Acrylic paints are easy to paint and very equal in durability. In my opinion, where most people are painting their interiors with rattle can, any name brand paint will work great. Anything you paint on the interior will chip. The thinner the coat the better for that reason since touch up is inevitable. I have already painted my HS and Rudder with Glasurit and Diamont and they came out show quality.

Highflight · #15 02-16-2005, 07:38 AM

A point to make, though, is that both Imron and Concept are urethane based products. What that means is that they are inherently less prone to chipping than other, more brittle paints such as lacquers and even enamels.

If you find that chipping is a problem with any of the urethane paints, then it's more likely that you're having a problem between the topcoat urethane and the primer.
Related directly to the subject being discussed here, I'll bet that lot's of builders prime their interiors sometimes months before painting. That can lead to case hardening of the primer which offers less adhesive "support", even if sanded well.
The answer for a long-cured primer is to sand first, and then spray an overthinned coat of the same primer on top of itself. Then after only a proper flash time of probably less than an hour, you can come right back and spray the topcoat.

If you're getting chipping, look closely at the chipped area and you'll probably see that the delamination occured between the bottom surface of the topcoat and the top surface of the primer.
That would indicate a failure of bond rather than a failure of paint.

tonyjohnson · #16 02-17-2005, 08:19 PM

My interior has been primed in vari prime, which was applied over a year ago. I will be priming freshly made pieces as I produce them. When I am ready to apply the interior paint, which will be soon, I intend to clean, scuff and shoot a new coat of vari prime just before the topcoat.

I am wondering if there would be a problem if I decided to use the PPG Concept over the dupont vari prime?

On another note, my interior that will not be painted with a topcoat, as well as the inside of my wings and other pieces, are primed with vari prime. I have heard that vari prime is not a good corrosion barrier unless it is topcoated. Does anyone have the real scoop on that issue?

Thanks,

Tony Johnson
N12TJ Reserved
RV8A Orlando

Highflight · #17 02-18-2005, 03:10 AM

Do a search on this forum about Veriprime (and other primers) being, or not being, effective without topcoating.

As far as painting the year old Veriprime with Concept, I don't see any basic problems with topcoating the fresh coat of Veriprime with Concept, but since you have a choice, I'd much prefer using the PPG DP/LF epoxy primer as the fresh sealer rather than Veriprime, and then topcoat with Concept.

In the real world, you can usually get away with mixing brands (if you know what you're doing), however, why introduce an unknown variable if you don't have to?
Whenever I "think" about doing something even a little bit different, I invariably stop and compare whatever time or money I might be saving against how much time and money I would spend if I had to do it OVER.

N916K · #18 02-18-2005, 05:48 AM

The DP primers from PPG are great but for a few small parts I've used rattle can self etching primer. Seems to work quite well. The guy in the hanger behind me uses nothing but rattle can paint under PPG Concept and he hasn't had any problems. Just make sure the part is clean and use an acid etch on the surface before you prime. I've found that the acid etch has more to do with the final outcome than the actual brand of primer.

LettersFromFlyoverCountry · #19 04-12-2005, 06:16 AM

qustion: At what point in the construction process of the fuse do you recommend painting. I'm still early on in fuse construction and I'm priming as I go. But should I consider final interior painting as I go too?

Bob

N916K · #20 04-12-2005, 07:21 AM

Bob

Right before you have to start bolting things on for good, paint the fuselage. It's earlier in the process than you would think. Basically a little ways past the QG stage.

About priming you may want to only prime where things go together so you can put a fresh coat of primer on shortly before you put the color coat on. If not you may end up getting tool oil and fingerprints all over your primed parts and the color coat may not stick as well.