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  #1  
Old 03-06-2010, 04:41 PM
UnPossible's Avatar
UnPossible UnPossible is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 543
Default Quick check with VAF experts before riveting on bottom wing skins

Hey - I'm getting ready to rivet on the bottom wing skins and I just want to make sure that I'm not forgetting anything. One thing that I'm not sure about is the OAT sensor Dynon uses for the new Skyview system that I'm planning on using. Anyone know if this sensor goes out on the wing, or below the fuselage.

Thanks,
Jason



Left Wing
* PitotTubing
* AOA Tubing
* 14GA pair for Duckworks Landing Light
* Twisted Sheilded 3-18GA for Aeroleds
* 20Ga for Syncing Wing and Tail Aeroleds



Right Wing
* * 14GA pair for Duckworks Landing Light
* Twisted Sheilded 3-18GA for Aeroleds
* 20Ga for Syncing Wing and Tail Aeroleds
* Bracked for Dynon AP servo
* Wiring Harness for Dynon AP servo (I'm planning on installing this later as I have it in hand and it will fit in holes drilled by Vans.
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RV-7A (Flying and Sold)
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Paid for 2020
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2010, 06:49 PM
avee8tor13 avee8tor13 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 141
Default Just a thought

I am not familiar with that model Dynon but I think the rule of thumb is to make sure the OAT is not in direct sun light and not down stream from the exhaust. My guess would be to put it under the right wing area.
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  #3  
Old 03-07-2010, 08:18 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,344
Default

I have installed my OAT in the airscope vent. I believe this is a common place as most install them.

Good luck
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  #4  
Old 03-07-2010, 10:48 AM
Camillo Camillo is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Roma, Italy
Posts: 510
Default

I read somewhere in the forum that OAT best location is on right wing. Right better than left due to propeller airflow (don't ask me more...). I am installing mine in right wing.
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  #5  
Old 03-07-2010, 02:35 PM
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Jamie Aust Jamie Aust is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 568
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivethead View Post
Seaching for a good place to put the OAT sensor and finding some interesting info here at VAF I've put my OAT on the rear bulk head under the fiberglass tail fairing in order to keep it out of the wind. In that position it's pretty much like being outside but is out of the wind. Apparently being in the wind will cause the temp to read a little high.
Hi Jason,

Im doing the same as rivethead re: AOT location.
I would put the servo in first if possible, you want have much room to work with once the skin is on, I know it is possible, and you already have the bracken fitted. I just like things to be easy and fun to do.
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2010, 04:00 PM
RetiredRacer RetiredRacer is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ipswich QLD Australia
Posts: 245
Default Conduit in QB wings

Unpossible, how did you get the conduit through on your QB wings? I've just started on my (9a) QB wings, and I wanted to insert conduit but I could not see how. I've seen some where they have run the conduit through the large lightening hole and zip-tied it to the side.
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2010, 04:32 PM
UnPossible's Avatar
UnPossible UnPossible is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RetiredRacer View Post
Unpossible, how did you get the conduit through on your QB wings? I've just started on my (9a) QB wings, and I wanted to insert conduit but I could not see how. I've seen some where they have run the conduit through the large lightening hole and zip-tied it to the side.

It was a real PITA.... this is one of those places where I think Vans could really be more helpful. What would it cost to punch the conduit hole in the ribs as they are being manufactured?

Anyway, what I did was to use the drawing at

http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Wiring.pdf

to make a template out of thin plywood. I drilled a 1/4" or so hole in the template as a starter hole. What I then did was to clamp the template to each rib and then drill a starter hole. With the template in place, it held the drill bit in the correct location. Once that was done, I used a couple of 12" drill bit extensions and a step drill bit to drill the hole out to 3/4". Once that was done, I used a scotch brite padto remove any burrs, etc. Pulling the conduit wasn't much fun, epically thru the wing walk area, but it's done.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
Jason
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2010, 06:01 PM
RetiredRacer RetiredRacer is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ipswich QLD Australia
Posts: 245
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Thanks for that.
The plywood template solves the main problem I thought I would have.
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  #9  
Old 03-08-2010, 06:58 AM
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gvouga gvouga is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 113
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bavafa View Post
I have installed my OAT in the airscope vent. I believe this is a common place as most install them.

Good luck
I don't recommend installing the OAT in the intake vent. I had mine there and could not get consistent temp readings. I believe the cause was overflow heat from the engine around the cowling. I have talked with others with similar issues.

I moved the sensor under the left wing just inboard of the first inspection plate and have not had any trouble since. It sounds like others recommend the right wing due to propeller airflow reasons, but I haven't seen any problems so far on the left wing. I've had it in this location for about 100hrs.
Either wing would probably be fine I suspect. I would just keep it off the fuselage.

Greg
RV-7A
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  #10  
Old 03-08-2010, 08:11 AM
RV7ator RV7ator is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,007
Default

Make double sure that conduit isn't going to foul the stick-to-bellcrank pushrod at the root end. The pushrod wobbles around quite a bit within the rib hole because of the fore-aft movement of the stick. Since you're not in a position to verify this, I would pull the conduit and drill through the rib webs near the TOP skin. That puts it out of the way when reaching through the inspection holes for just about anything. And you really don't need a conduit (though this is an on-going war item); use snap bushings and you can reach around enough in the wing or use fishwire to pull wires/coax.

Get the servo and bell crank out of the way for riveting even though you can kinda work around them. More obstacles = worse rivets.

You can beat the end of an aluminum tube to grip a unibit shank, thus creating a very long extension drill for reaching ribs behind the inner top skin.

John Siebold
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