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03-05-2010, 08:49 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,069
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elevator horn drilling :(
Looks like I will welding shut the hole. It was perfertly perpendicular but I did not notice that one horn was taller than the other, resulting in a close the edge #30 hole...still would have to open this hole to number #12.
Someone told me welding steel makes the steel harder and more difficult to drill into.??....
any advice... 
__________________
Ryan Allen, CFII
RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
RV10 Tail Kit complete, Wings 90%, fuse on order
Acro Sport 2, building
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03-05-2010, 08:55 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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Rivet instead of weld.
A simpler way of making this repair would be to rivet a doubler of equivalent thickness onto the original horn to give sufficient edge distance. The doubler should cover as much of the original horn as possible for strength.
There is plenty of clearance between the two horns.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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03-05-2010, 09:03 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,069
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I like that idea much better. Would put the doubler on the inside or outside of the horn. Also, should the doubler be steel too?
__________________
Ryan Allen, CFII
RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
RV10 Tail Kit complete, Wings 90%, fuse on order
Acro Sport 2, building
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03-05-2010, 09:07 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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Yeah, that's 4130 steel.. You'll want to stick with the same stuff, so you have the same strength.
Mis-drilling those horns is a pretty common error. Ask me how I know. 
Phil |
03-05-2010, 09:11 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 132
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horn drilling
I am not an engineer, but would imagine that any doubler here should be steel. To address the welding and drilling (I had to do the same) I found drilling the hole difficult too. Ended up cutting a larger section of the horn out and weling a new piece in so that the new hole was in vergin material and not the weld. Also, found that it takes a very good drill to drill that stuff anyway. I found that a step drill seemed to work much easier. Once you have a hole it is much easier to drill it larger to the correct size. Happy drilling.
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03-05-2010, 09:51 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miyu1975
I like that idea much better. Would put the doubler on the inside or outside of the horn. Also, should the doubler be steel too?
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Yes, as Phil said, it should be 4130. Same as the material you are reinforcing.
I personally would put it on the inside (between the horns). You could put it on the outside, but if you do, make it as large as possible radiusing the edges to fit in the channel.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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03-05-2010, 09:52 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,069
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ok...going with Mels plan..and using 4130 steel as doubler. pics to follow
__________________
Ryan Allen, CFII
RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
RV10 Tail Kit complete, Wings 90%, fuse on order
Acro Sport 2, building
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03-05-2010, 11:58 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,544
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While you are at it make a doubler for the other side and if you make them thick enough you will not need any washers.
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Tom Martin RV1 pilot 4.6hours!
CPL & IFR rated
EVO F1 Rocket 1000 hours,
2010 SARL Rocket 100 race, average speed of 238.6 knots/274.6mph
RV4, RV7, RV10, two HRIIs and five F1 Rockets
RV14 Tail dragger
Fairlea Field
St.Thomas, Ontario Canada, CYQS
fairleafield@gmail.com
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03-05-2010, 05:54 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 659
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I made the same mistake. I was planning on getting it welded, but if I were to some how screw it up again after that I'd be pretty upset with myself.
The doubler sounds like a great idea. Should it be attached with aluminum or steel rivets?
__________________
Andy Compton, PhD EE
RV-10 - #41414 (building)
RV-9A - N643AC (built,flying,sold,missed)
My blood and sweat, the Wifey's tears 
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03-05-2010, 07:49 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lionclaw
The doubler sounds like a great idea. Should it be attached with aluminum or steel rivets?
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Standard aluminum AD rivets.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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